Good advice and good morning!

Interesting read, thanks for sharing

Good morning from Caledonia Tx

Back when I bought my first good bait caster and graphite rod it was 5’6” and had a pistol grip. That was one sweet setup for its day. Once the longer fighting but became popular increased rod length followed. I look for a balanced feel once I put my reel on. By this I mean I don’t want a tip heavy feel without the bait hanging from. Once you make your cast that’s what you will have anyway. If your setup is tip or rod heavy then it will tire you much more while holding it out in front of you fishing.

You’re welcome!

Milfoil looks very much like hydrilla and I don’t know if I could tell them apart personally. A Rat L Trap or lipless crank bait catch a ton of fish reeling them over this type of grass when it’s submerged. You have to retrieve it slow enough that it contacts the the tips of the grass. It’s going to try a hang at times but you need to rip it loose and that’s generally when you get bit.

Punching these grass beds with a punch rig is another way to catch bass fishing them. The punch rig is going to be more weedless than a jig.

Another effective method is to use a Carolina rig. A heavier Carolina rig can be used when the grass is very short. For the taller grass you’re going to go with a weight that’s 1/2 ounce or less for the Carolina rig.

If the grass beds have an abrupt drop at the edge that a wacky rig can work wonders with its slow fall along thes edges or in any holes in the grass beds. A lightly weighted Texas rig of 1/4 ounce or less can be very effective working it through and over the submerged grass that slowly tapers off towards the bottom.

You’re welcome

Back in the 80s when I was a young man and reading various articles on rod set ups, I soon learned that the lightest rod and reel combo we put together would be the most sensitive. That’s when I started reading the actual weight of the rod or reel before settling on a purchase.

I know that for specific techniques heavier rods are needed for their backbone or stiffness. However when shopping for a new rod for a specific technique the weight of the rod is still a big consideration for me today. Having the lightest rod and reel possible for your particular technique is going to enhance your ability to feel the slightest tinge of the line. This is the very reason rod builders start using lighter material like boron or carbon graphite to construct their rods.

Today many anglers still swear by glass rods for cranking but I personally prefer using the much lighter graphite cranking rods. When cranking you’re not looking for the slightest little bite but the sudden weight of the fish when the rod loads up. The lighter graphite cranking rod will be less strenuous on you over the coarse of the day and hundreds of casts because of its lighter weight.

For a finesse rod set up you won’t be looking for distance so a shorter rod will work and it will be lighter than a longer version of the same rod. Something to consider when so many are pushing the idea that longer rods are better. For me it all depends on preference and what you get used to but for sensitivity lighter is better.

The same goes for the reel you choose and the weight of reels produced has been geared towards making them as light as possible without compromising reliability. When I’m shopping for reels I’m not only considering spool width and gear ratio but also looking at the actual weight of the reel. If I’m comparing two reels in the same price range I’m going with the lighter one if there’s considerable difference of a few ounces. This may not seem like much but by the end of the day a heavier rod and reel will wear you down more. If you’re a competitive angler like I then you’re always looking for an edge.

Now for my line I like fluorocarbon or braid because of its lack of stretch like monofilament. Keeping your line tight helps to feel bites along with rod angle. Fluorocarbon or braid will also give you better hook sets over monofilament. Pair this with the lightest rod and reel for your technique and you have your ultimate setup. Lots of anglers prefer braid because of it’s lack of stretch and strength but I shy away from it unless I’m fishing heavy cover.

When possible I’m going to fish a heavier weight on the end of my line rather it’s a jig or Texas or Carolina rig. This allows me to keep my line tighter without moving my bait and feel everything it comes in contact on the bottom. With the heavier weight it allows for a faster fall and to cover more water by not having to wait as long for it to fall. Once on bottom I can drag it faster than with a lighter weight and keep it in contact with the bottom. On windy days a heavier weight will be easier to cast and allow you to keep your line tighter without your bait being moved by the wind. I use lighter weights when the fish are wanting a slower fall but you’re not going to cover as much water.

If you’re in a store you can read the weight of the rod on it but not usually at online stores. I’m not trying to get anyone to change brands or buy a cheaper or more expensive brand just trying to help those that might not be aware of any of this already. Hopefully this helps someone catch more bass. Tight lines!

Welcome aboard!

Yes sir

G****l w*****g

With all due respect sir there’s a difference between tournament rules and your own personal opinion. That’s why I suggested that you read the rules of the tournament that your grandchild will be competing in. Most tournaments these days entries agree to subject themselves to a lie detector test. In the case of high school tournaments they usually question the boat captain. I’m just trying to steer you in the right direction sir based on my own experience and knowledge of youth fishing tournaments.

Most high school tournaments have a rule against soliciting information to a said body of water within 30 days prior to the tournament. Same goes for highering a guide within the same time frame. I think I would be reading the rules carefully before proceeding with this venture. Just my two cents as a high school boat captain.

Spraying anything oily onto your reels is going to attract dirt and cause it to stick and build up more readily. I suggest taking your reels apart and clean them with soap and water thoroughly. Then drying them with a towel and lubricating them to manufacture specs. They should fish and cast like new after doing this. If you don’t feel comfortable attempting the task yourself then I suggest taking them to a reel shop to have them properly cleaned. Just my two cents

I wonder who the poop expert is that determined what this once was lol