The only time I use weights back to back is on a Tokyo rig with a bead between them for added sound, and use tungsten, can use different weights, for a different weight
Buy crankbaits you have confidence in or brand, don't buy cheap, I pay about $5 -$8 for a crankbait
Right now in the summer to fall transitioning period, and in summer time around weed edges, docks, and a heavy action rod, 17-20# line mono, and high speed reel 7.1:1 or higher
Especially if short striking, and in open water just me learning the hard way
Mu preference is a 7' heavy action fast tip and 14-20# mono, and no problems high speed reel
Try to match the hatch, find out type of bait where your fishing, and fish bait about the same size
I always removed plastics and I put them in original packaging, and remove all lures from rods between trips
It depends on the type of jigging your doing, flipping, pitching or even docks, trees, weeds, different types of jigs for different purposes
Use a quick strike rig more humane for musky, when sucker grabbed by musky reel down and set rig hard , let fish go away from best
Try to reach out to smity guide service ask for russ or jake Smith, owners of smity baits in minoqua, wi
Spinnerbaits, crankbait and wacky worm
I broke a 20 year old st croix rod, and got new replacement from them for $100 that is a avid series and upgraded in length of rod only third rod sent back in 25 years, great people
Follow the underwater channel river caught. a 5# in june, on deep diving crankbait in sexyshad
Musky fishing requires a 8'6" med hvy rod 80# test line 185# leader, and big baits from 8"-12", crankbait, jerkbaits ,bucktails and the water, good luck
I use snaps on my crankbait rods only to change lures quickly, but the rest are hand tied knots to lure, you should learn several knots for different lures, loop knot for jerk bait, palomar for braid, clinch knot on mono, again this is my preference having taken several classes over the from bass pros in classes