We all started at that same point. The best thing we can do his help our neighbors feed their families.

All great advice. Tune by hanging your jig a couple feet below your rod tip. Adjust your casting drag (small knob) your jig stays put. Now pop your rod tip down a bit. Back your casting drag off until your jig drops 12 to 18" & stops. Now go make some bird nests. Watch your jig until just before it hits the water and apply pressure. You do not want your spool spinning when the jig hits or your done for a bit. Once you get the hang of it your spinners will hate you. At least until it gets windy. Baicasters & conventional have unequaled drag, power & dependability. Easy to maintain & clean up in my opinion. But some people prefer spinners. I love both but a spinner is way more unforgiving on a hot bite. On the other hand baitcasters & conventional have more stopping power. It really just depends on you. Just don't be discouraged by the above pics otherwise you'll never try it. If you jig alot or are casting into the wind, after about 6 - 10 casts take one long cast & just reel it straight in to re-tighten the line on your spool. Even the best jack up their spools from time to time.

Danforth

I think ya'll are talking about fishing right? Glenn, you like to start with the tough guys first I take it? Get some small shrimp 2 - 3" or sand flees (before it gets too cold) tie a Carolina rig with ¼ oz to ⅜ oz egg weight & size 1 to 1/0 hook ( I prefer Owner SSW for everything but that's just me. There are cheaper options but they aren't the same) 18" 12 -15 lb floro leader & hit the surf. Cast as far out as you can & drag it in slow. When you get to 30-40 from shore grit your teeth & be ready. A lot of anglers cast halfway to South America reaching the sand bars. You don't have to go there. Pomps, Whiting, Reds, Black Drum, Flounder & even Specs & Silver trout will work the surf. You just need to keep an eye on water movement. If there's no movement then enjoy your time on the beach until it flows. Rising or falling tides don't really matter in the case of Pomps, but they prefer clear flowing water. There body color is proof to that. My favorite rig for casting live bait is a 3/8 oz ball jig with a fiddler. Everything eats it. Good luck & send pics.

Then he's a great man and even better fisherman.

That's a nice mess of Whiting. My favorite recipe for them is mix a sauce of either mayo or ranch, Dijon mustard, garlic powder or fresh garlic even better, pinch or two cayenne, onion powder & Parmesan Cheese, then a pinch of salt to your likin'. Rub it on dry filets then roll in panko. We spray them with coconut oil & air fry til dark golden. But deep fried they're hard to put down too. We had'em thick as here two & 3 years ago but they didn't (or haven't) shown this year. Some of the biggest we've ever seen too, at least in the Panama City area. Pensacola guys reported quite a few too

Find grass find fish. Warm water look for holes & channels. Overcast days are best for warm season trout. Red & Black drum are easy on shrimp of fiddlers on a ball jig. Lip a 3" choafer on light carolina rig for them. Hit structure with fiddlers for Sheepshead. Haunt the rock jetties at the pass in the cold months into Spring for Sheepshead. For flounder drag 3" paddletails around sand pockets in the grass. Color depends on light & water clarity. White & chartreuse are always getting wet from my bag. A boat or kayak are your best bet to cover more water. Pompano! Hit the beach with a flee rake. I like a 1 - 1/0 Owner ssw Carolina with ½ oz egg weight. Use the smaller ¾" flees or 2½ shrimp for Pomps in the surf. Key word here is surf. Sling it as far out as you can but grit your teeth when you rig gets within 40 feet of the beach.
Pomps are here all year. Water movement is key to all species. But one thing holds true, if there are no signs of feeding activity or visible movement, then you'll have to earn your dinner. Fish ain't free & neither is knowledge. Buy good tackle & take care of it. Light tackle is too heavy. Go light with 8 lb power-pro. If you are in trout water & you will be then you need to cack your drag down & don't set your hook. If you don't and you do, then you will lose and wound every trout that hit. Hope this helps. That's 30 years of learning wrapped up in one long rant. Tight lines & broken rods

LOL try dishsoap & water on your yellow jackets next time. For their hive (in the ground) use 10 - 15 ml of Guard Star mixed in a gallon of water. You get it from beekeeping suppliers online. It breaks down to nothing after a few days. Plus your property won't burn for weeks after the asteroid hits us.

If you spray anything on anything' spray Teflon on your rod & eyelets. They'll appreciate it and it won't affect your mo o or floro, its probably in its chemestry already to keep it flexible. Besides you'll lose 30 - 50 ft of line on a good bottom trip anyways lol.

If you spray anything on anything' spray Teflon on your rod & eyelets. They'll appreciate it and it won't affect your mo o or floro, its probably in its chemestry already to keep it flexible. Besides you'll lose 30 - 50 ft of line on a good bottom trip anyways lol.

The idea of applying a petroleum product to any "plastic or petroleum based" product sounds great. Don't worry about a thing, my daughter & I will catch all the ones you lose. 😉 as far as fluorocarbon main goes, it's a great leader material & has strength as well as being invisible (to us) but once it's hits an abrasive be it sand, structure, shark (yes they're out there) etc, then its a warning beacon. I have tons of respect for Ande's Backwoods. Favorite color is grey. It's strong, tough & pretty hard to see in the water. It's also more flexible than regular Ande mono. Holds a great knot as well. If you want a suggestion, spool up some Power-pro & tie in a good length of fluoro leader with a good reel on knot. Then as you get bit-off, broke-off, knot untied-off etc, you have more flouro leader after a short snip and your back on the bite. Just my advice from experience. Tight-lines & broken rods.