Ben Bragg Loc: Dayton Ohio

Hey Steve
Brother says it runs on cold start but when he turns the red knob on controls it immediately dies
That mean anything to you?

EasternOZ Loc: Kansas City Metro

Found this on another forum.

evinrude 1980 50 hp red choke switch
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?378056-evinrude-1980-50-hp-red-choke-switch

Whitey Loc: Southeast ohio

I've googled an cant even find a controller with a red knob. Pics please 😁 . Sounds like it's either a cutoff switch or a choke on the controller
Only thing red at the top of the control handle what is the power tilt and trim

NoCal Steve Loc: Dunnigan, CA

Ben... off the top of my head it's the fast idle switch for cold starts. I believe it send a signal to a solenoid that pushes fuel straight into the cylinders (carb bypass). There should be a knob on that solenoid (red) with a pointer. The pointer should be down for normal operation. If it's up then it's in manual and the engine won't run right. I'll grab my service manual on the way out the door to work. Then I can stop using my memory and shoot you the straight facts. I think I remember it said something specific if the engine only runs with the fast idle switch on at the controls. Give me a couple of hours and I'll get back to you.

wd4ity Loc: Middle Georgia, Forsyth

Check that new fuel tank and make sure it's vented. Also buy one of those inexpensive spark testers. Run the engine until it quits, pull the cover, and test for spark. I've seen ignition modules heat up and fail only to restart after they cool a bit.

Fredfish Loc: Prospect CT.

That's what I was thinking WD4ity, either the module or a coil.

ripogenu Loc: norfolk, MA

there are really small holes in the carbs that "balance "air/gas ratio.. some carbs have very small rubber seals in some of the ports. this crap ethanol enhanced gas eats the crap out of those. normal carb rebuild kit does not include those and a carb cleaner won't do squat. if you're an experienced outboard mechanic you will know what to do, if your not DO NOT attempt it.

NoCal Steve Loc: Dunnigan, CA

Damn Ben, I went right out the door and forgot to grab the damn book. See if I can get it right today. But here is how you test the electrical system. It runs on high idle correct? Disconnect the plug wire at the plug one at a time. The motor should run worse wach time a cylinder is disabled. 8f you pull the wire on one and it makes no difference then you have found an electrical problem with that cylinder. Also, start the engine and when it starts to die squeeze the bulb. If this keeps the motor running then your new fuel pump isn't working. Check the pulse limiter first. A vent valve was installed on the overflow of the new tank??

NoCal Steve Loc: Dunnigan, CA

Ben... let me know what your brother found out from the electrical test and the squeeze bulb test. We need that info to move on but here is the basic linkage procedure. Disconnect the remote throttle cable from the throttle arm and loosen the clamp that holds the trunnion nut until you can pull the throttle away and just let it lay down. On the remote, move the handle between nuetral and full forward throttle 2 or 3 times. Returnbthe handle to nuetral and slowly move forward stopping at the first ident. Slowly move the handle back towards nuetral until it is halfway between nuetral and the first indent. Grab the trunion nut and pull the throttle cable until all the slack is removed. Attach the end of the cable to the throttle arm and turn the trunion nut so it fitsvinto the holder. Tighten the trunion keeper clamp until it just starts to get snug. Wiggle the throttle. If it won't move turn the trunion nut until the throttle arm has a little play. If the first wiggle of the throttle arm mentioned above and the throttle arm has a lot of slop then adjust the trunion to take up the slop.

It just hit me what is probably wromg with the motor. You had someone rebuild the carbs, yes ? The probably adjust the idle orifice to the generic setting which is backed out 1 1/4 turns. You may need to come out as much as 4 turns. I don't have your specific motor in my manual. I'll PM you the procedure for one close to and if it has the same parts you know the procedure is the same.

GSMJr Loc: SoCal> Pflugerville (Austin), TX

What a wealth of knowledge here.
I don’t have a boat & motor but I have gained a lot of insight on a myriad of topics.
Since I started watching the Stage shortly after it began, it has evolved to include so much more than putting a worm on a hook and pull out a fish.
Great job guys, I commend you all helping one another.
Garry

NoCal Steve Loc: Dunnigan, CA

Ben.... I did a little research and your 88 may not use the electrical solenoid for fast start. The red handle on the remote could be the mechanical way to advance the throttle while in Nuetral. If that's the case, and the engine when it is in normal but runs in the fast position, I'm thinking you just have an idle adjustment issue. Play withe numbers on the chart I sent you and see what happens.