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Grinding Aluminum
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Sep 4, 2020 23:43:26   #
Able Man Loc: North Coast (Cleveland, Ohio)
 
Bueno

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Sep 5, 2020 05:27:56   #
plumbob Loc: New Windsor Maryland
 
Spiritof27 wrote:
Thank you jefcon - I will look for one. 80 grit on a flap disc? I can certainly do that.

I bought a 3' by 3" by 1/2" aluminum bar of aluminum and I'm using for the transom for a motor mount I'm building for my kayak. I don't really need all that aluminum, I just basically need the 3' by 3" frame and a couple of places for a couple of screws. So I took it to a shop and had them remove all the metal I don't need. I did this to reduce weight, as even though it is aluminum it is a very solid hunk of metal. The result will serve my purpose, but like I said it is very rough and jagged. So I don't care what it looks like when it's finished - the fish aren't going to care, but I don't want it to make me bleed when I handle it.
Thank you jefcon - I will look for one. 80 grit o... (show quote)


One last tip from me Spirit. Any corners on that metal round them off. You will be surprised what that 90* corner will catch and snag if you don't.

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Sep 5, 2020 09:03:20   #
Sitn Loc: Osyka, MS.
 
Hey Spirit, the guys have good ideas on your work. I use a file like a horse shoe file. Clamp your work tightly and go to work. Slide the file lightly at an angle and take it up off the work. Don’t rake it backward on the work. You may need to use the file card every now and then while working. There is a sanding disk for aluminum you can use to clean up the edge of the work piece. It takes time to do something right and to look nice. Am 77 years young and have learned over the years that taking my time pays off better than having to do it over again. Just my way of doing things. Keep up the good work and you will be pleased with what you do and others won’t make snide remarks about it. Hope this helps.

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Sep 5, 2020 10:00:58   #
ccrewstx Loc: Just south of Houston, Tx near Alvin
 
I use an adjustable speed Dremel tool with a metal cutting disk to cut the worst off. Then use it with metal cutting bits to smooth it. One bit is coarse cut and tapered and one is smoother cut and straight like a round file. Also wear leather gloves when coarse cutting with the disk. If it is a large piece with large jagged edges I will use an angel grinder with a metal cutting wheel to start then go to the Dremel tool. Also, have used a jigsaw with metal cutting blade for starting with very jagged AL.

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Sep 5, 2020 12:41:10   #
Jeremy Loc: America
 
Spiritof27 wrote:
I'ma take a picture of it and y'all can see what it is I'm dealing with. No, it's not enormous or massive but it is ugly and jagged. You'll see.

It's in my backyard and it's dark out there right now and I'm ascared. I take the picture tomorrow when the bats and spiders go to wherever it is that they go to. K?


Bats and spiders....don't forget the boogie man might be lurking.

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Sep 5, 2020 12:43:40   #
Bcmech1 Loc: Clinton Wisconsin
 
Get a flapper disc. We use them all the time on aluminum at work

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Sep 5, 2020 13:19:36   #
Spiritof27 Loc: Lincoln, CA
 
Jeremy wrote:
Bats and spiders....don't forget the boogie man might be lurking.


Dude I am the boogie man.

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Sep 5, 2020 14:07:57   #
Spiritof27 Loc: Lincoln, CA
 
Spiritof27 wrote:
I'ma take a picture of it and y'all can see what it is I'm dealing with. No, it's not enormous or massive but it is ugly and jagged. You'll see.

It's in my backyard and it's dark out there right now and I'm ascared. I take the picture tomorrow when the bats and spiders go to wherever it is that they go to. K?


Like I said, ugly. But functional.









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Sep 5, 2020 14:17:26   #
Able Man Loc: North Coast (Cleveland, Ohio)
 
Thanks for "thy visual"... I bet I'd use sheets (or strips) of Emory cloth y "go at it", in that vice, as if I were trying to polish a shoe. (Just MY take, on how I'm go about eliminating burrs/ sharp edges.)

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Sep 5, 2020 15:32:47   #
Spiritof27 Loc: Lincoln, CA
 
Able Man wrote:
Thanks for "thy visual"... I bet I'd use sheets (or strips) of Emory cloth y "go at it", in that vice, as if I were trying to polish a shoe. (Just MY take, on how I'm go about eliminating burrs/ sharp edges.)


Well thank you for your take, I do appreciate any help I can get. There are so many suggestions here and I certainly don't have any idea what I'm doing, so I'ma hafta go back and read all this and come up with a plan. I've never used emory that I know of. Anything I should know before I attempt that?

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Sep 5, 2020 15:37:46   #
Spiritof27 Loc: Lincoln, CA
 
Guys and gals, please pardon my ignorance. For half my life I was a tennis pro, the second half a electronics technician. Never took a shop class, and know virtually nothing about using saws and grinders and sanders and such. I know enough to keep my hands covered in leather and away from any spinning blades or wheels, and to wear eye protection to avoid tiny missiles. But I'm sure willing to learn.

Glad I took that picture, that ashtray needs to go - I do not smoke, but I've got a couple daughters (three) who do. Nasty.

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Sep 5, 2020 17:27:06   #
Able Man Loc: North Coast (Cleveland, Ohio)
 
Well, if I couldn't find any sold in 1+1/2" - 2" wide (they DO $ell ROLLS like that; but, I don't know what the length of the smallest roll would be; & I'm guessing that you won't be needing >~18 or so inches of each grit... Maybe a yard of each grit, for this one job; I'd hate to be suggesting $pending > necessary.) {Although, that stuff DOES come in handy, I keep a few feet of a couple different grits, in a couple of tool boxes.} ;;; Then, I would buy the sheets @ a hardware (or "Big-Box" style {Home Depot/ whatever they got near ya, there.}) ... I would try for no more than ~ 3 or 4 sheets of each grit. 1/2 dozen each, @ the most, of: 40, 80 & 110-120 grit; whatever they got in that ballpark of "Grit-designation#" really should do the job.
I would first see if any of my tin-snips would cut it, if not; OLD scissors or make a 1/4" starter cut @ one edge y then tear it like making rags of T-shirts. OR, flip it upside down on the cutting board y use that "carpet-knife"/ a good, metalic straight-edge. Hell; I'm "going on" a bit much; PERHAPS. I'm guessing you don't need or want a BOOK written ~ it. (Sorry)

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Sep 5, 2020 17:40:33   #
Able Man Loc: North Coast (Cleveland, Ohio)
 
Spiritof27 wrote:
Well thank you for your take, I do appreciate any help I can get. There are so many suggestions here and I certainly don't have any idea what I'm doing, so I'ma hafta go back and read all this and come up with a plan. I've never used emory that I know of. Anything I should know before I attempt that?


Emory cloth is probably a bit more expensive than sandpaper, but is designed for use on metalic work-pieces. It's OK to soak it in kerosene or another solvent of your choice, < using y intermittently, WHILE using it, you may get more life out of it, by washing it off (with the solvent) if it starts seeming to "load-up".

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Sep 5, 2020 17:49:35   #
Spiritof27 Loc: Lincoln, CA
 
Keep in mind that you're talkin to a guy who just came in out of the woods and has no idea what you're talking about.

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Sep 5, 2020 17:56:47   #
Able Man Loc: North Coast (Cleveland, Ohio)
 
Spiritof27 wrote:
Keep in mind that you're talkin to a guy who just came in out of the woods and has no idea what you're talking about.


Well HELL; ... Ya DO know what SANDPAPER is... ¿Don'tchya? ... It's like sandpaper, but ... More like "gritcloth".

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