Fish Dancer wrote:
Luckily there’s no termites. And the joists are solid.
Do the joists have bridging?
(X-bracing or solid blocking)
Any additional bracing will help keep the floor around the toilet from flexing as much, and in turn, reduce the chance of flange leaks. Don’t know if you have an unfinished basement with access from underneath or if not, it looks like you will at least have to replace some subfloor. You probably already know this stuff anyway, but just giving a tip from a lifetime of experience doing remodeling. Good luck and sorry you’re having to discover the bad floor.
ghaynes1 wrote:
I think Bear and I need to take a road trip and give you a break from all that stuff. We aren't catching anything here. Got fish where you are FD?
I got a great big lake full of fish. Come get ya some.
Shutupandfish wrote:
Thanks, didn’t really like the 2x10 without staggered rows or herringbone but customers choice. He had a little corner shower there before. Made the corner shelves from diagonal cut marble tile glued together and polished edge
Well you know what they say, customers always right.
Randyhartford wrote:
Do the joists have bridging?
(X-bracing or solid blocking)
Any additional bracing will help keep the floor around the toilet from flexing as much, and in turn, reduce the chance of flange leaks. Don’t know if you have an unfinished basement with access from underneath or if not, it looks like you will at least have to replace some subfloor. You probably already know this stuff anyway, but just giving a tip from a lifetime of experience doing remodeling. Good luck and sorry you’re having to discover the bad floor.
Do the joists have bridging? br (X-bracing or soli... (
show quote)
Thanks. I am planning on doing additional blocking to make it stronger.
Fish Dancer wrote:
Thanks. I am planning on doing additional blocking to make it stronger.
Remember, never let the opportunity of a home project pass without using it as a reason to the wife for a new tool, doesn’t matter if you’ve done the same type of project 5 times before
Fish Dancer wrote:
Thanks. I am planning on doing additional blocking to make it stronger.
I figured you would know that. 😉
Many of the bathroom jobs I’ve done over the years (which looked just like yours), had either NO bridging, or the joists had been butchered for the drain pipe, so badly there was no strength left, and no added bracing to replace what had been chopped out, thus making the whole toilet area spongy. The newer I-joists have helped that some.
Looks like the last guy forget the wax ring. Bummer!
BD
Sorry to hear that you have that to deal with right now! Yeah...that was me about 3 months ago too. Looks like you are planning to lay some 1/2" or 3/4" new floor board over it all and let the old base stay put? Maybe have the leading edge at the door taper down a bit to avoid a trip hazard? I know that hardware stores...small and maybe even a "big box" carry a large variety of adapters for dealing with this kind of situation on the toilet bowl itself. Even wax rings and alternate versions have come a long way. Hopefully you have decent access from below? Best of luck as you tackle this...and as a last resort, maybe it would be OK to solicit a carpenter/remodel person to take it over if it becomes problematic....
Shutupandfish wrote:
Remember, never let the opportunity of a home project pass without using it as a reason to the wife for a new tool, doesn’t matter if you’ve done the same type of project 5 times before
Hmmmm. Let me see..... what do I need? Is a bait caster a tool?🤪
Blackdog wrote:
Looks like the last guy forget the wax ring. Bummer!
BD
Lynny said it was squished so flat that there was barely anything left.
fishyaker wrote:
Sorry to hear that you have that to deal with right now! Yeah...that was me about 3 months ago too. Looks like you are planning to lay some 1/2" or 3/4" new floor board over it all and let the old base stay put? Maybe have the leading edge at the door taper down a bit to avoid a trip hazard? I know that hardware stores...small and maybe even a "big box" carry a large variety of adapters for dealing with this kind of situation on the toilet bowl itself. Even wax rings and alternate versions have come a long way. Hopefully you have decent access from below? Best of luck as you tackle this...and as a last resort, maybe it would be OK to solicit a carpenter/remodel person to take it over if it becomes problematic....
Sorry to hear that you have that to deal with righ... (
show quote)
I’m removing the rotten floor and replacing it with new. No need to hire anyone. This is what I did for a living. I’m a recently retired general contractor.
I am encouraged that you have it all under control...that's great!
Fish Dancer wrote:
Hmmmm. Let me see..... what do I need? Is a bait caster a tool?🤪
It can be! Your question sparked an old memory of when I once used a rod and reel for a “tool” on a job I was doing, re-nailing a corrugated metal barn roof. The roof was too steep to stay/walk on, so....
I got my fishing rod out of my truck, tied on a large weight, and cast it over the barn roof, to the ground on the other side, where a tractor was parked in the barnyard. I tied one end of a long, heavy rope, securely to the tractor, and the other end to my fishing line. Then I walked back around the barn and started reeling till the rope got over the ridge and down to the roof eave.
I then set up an extension ladder against the roof, carried up a single section of ladder, and using the rope, climbed up the roof and tied the ladder securely to the rope with the top end of the ladder about 4-5’ down from the ridge. Then I was able to sit on the rungs and “pendulum” the ladder back and forth as I nailed the roof. I think I only had to re-tie once to cover the whole slope.
The only thing I failed to think about, were the cows that showed up and were curious about the rope tied to the tractor!
As soon as I saw them near the rope, I started screaming like a wild Banshee and waving my arms. They moseyed off after a little while and I went down and closed the gate.
Randyhartford wrote:
It can be! Your question sparked an old memory of when I once used a rod and reel for a “tool” on a job I was doing, re-nailing a corrugated metal barn roof. The roof was too steep to stay/walk on, so....
I got my fishing rod out of my truck, tied on a large weight, and cast it over the barn roof, to the ground on the other side, where a tractor was parked in the barnyard. I tied one end of a long, heavy rope, securely to the tractor, and the other end to my fishing line. Then I walked back around the barn and started reeling till the rope got over the ridge and down to the roof eave.
I then set up an extension ladder against the roof, carried up a single section of ladder, and using the rope, climbed up the roof and tied the ladder securely to the rope with the top end of the ladder about 4-5’ down from the ridge. Then I was able to sit on the rungs and “pendulum” the ladder back and forth as I nailed the roof. I think I only had to re-tie once to cover the whole slope.
The only thing I failed to think about, were the cows that showed up and were curious about the rope tied to the tractor!
As soon as I saw them near the rope, I started screaming like a wild Banshee and waving my arms. They moseyed off after a little while and I went down and closed the gate.
It can be! Your question sparked an old memory of ... (
show quote)
"Necessity is the Mother of Invention"
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