bapabear wrote:
I used that system for years guiding in Alaska. I often set in several hundred feet. It worked great. 1. Go bigger with the bouy. You do not want the bouy pulled under while raising the anchor. 2. be sure to get a good smooth splice between the chain and rode (rope) or you will be chasing the anchor up and down 3. Be sure the chain weighs more than the anchor so the anchor will not fall back down when the pressure is taken off. 4. Be sure you have enough clear surface water to pull as you have to run in a slight arch to keep the line away from the prop and a lot further than the anchor line length. 5. If possible, particularly in current, have someone drive the boat directly toward the bouy as the line is pulled aboard. That way the deck hand just has to pull the rode in and coil it rather than pulling the buoy and anchor through the water, a formidable task in current. For what it is worth, I leave the ring on the anchor rather than taking it off every pull. Thats saves a lot of time pulling and deploying the anchor and the bow is as good as anywhere to store the LARGER buoy. Remember, when fishing, you can forget the 7 to 1 scope rule. All you need is enough to hold as you should be on deck so you can see if you break anchor. It is a temporary set anyway. Definitely use a breakaway system as mentioned above. I use cord rather than zip ties, but that is just me. The breakaway has saved me $$$$ over the years in anchor costs. I have only lost 4 anchors in several thousand sets.
I used that system for years guiding in Alaska. I... (
show quote)
Thank you! This is some good advice. I didn't think about the chain weight vs the anchor weight. It makes sense if the chain is lighter then the anchor would just slide back down the moment you stop running the boat and pulling it.
And I'll make sure the chain-to-rope splice point isn't getting the ring stuck. Another good point I haven't considered.