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Apr 30, 2020 15:55:18   #
Please, catch them all! They are a pain in the but bait stealer. Chum them with dry cat food, which floats. They have no inhibitions about feeding on the surface. Also they will attack lures, especially soft plastics, which they destroy.
The MOST IMPORTANT thing, especially with the Mud Cat's is do not get spined. As posted by others, not only is it painful, but it can infect you with bacteria that will eat your flesh and is very difficult to get rid of. I know as I spent 28 days in the hospital from such an infection. Luckily, the infection was cured. If you do get spined, don't screw around. Head to the ER immediately.

https://www.theonlinefisherman.com/how-to-fish/saltwater-catfish-a-fun-catch-and-delicious-treat

Cheers🐟
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Apr 30, 2020 15:38:26   #
Hi, Hope this helps.

https://anglr.com/fishing-blog/other/catch-peacock-bass-south-florida/

https://1source.basspro.com/news-tips/bass/3971/floridas-neglected-peacock-bass-fishing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DH6q4MFSCHA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdAyb74mhw0

Cheers 🐟

PS-Personally, I don't need to know your profile info.
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Apr 30, 2020 05:29:54   #
It's a matter of taste. As a rule, Gag grouper are the best eating. Big Goliath's less so, but still better than many other salt water fish. Also, as a rule, the larger a fish the less tasty it is compared to smaller ones of the same species. Again, it's a personal taste issue.
Cheers🐟
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Apr 30, 2020 05:22:23   #
Berk wrote:
Been doing some small stream trout fishing and recently switched to a rod and reel that I haven’t used in a few years. Every 5-6 casts my line is getting all messed up on the spool..pics are below. Is this because the line is old or bad? Thanks in advance for any advice.


Agreed that this is a "line memory" problem, but also could be a line tension issue too. If you don't have enough pressure to reel the line in so it lays tightly on the spool, you will get loose layers of line. When you make your next cast, not only will line come off the outer diameter of the spool, but also loose line will come off with it, making a birds nest. Line MUST always pack tightly on reel, spin or baitcaster.
Pull off a few yards and if it automatically twists into loops, you have line twist which commonly occurs when you are reeling against a loose drag, so that no line is actually being retrieved. This simply puts twist in the line. Also, you want to match the line's lb test with the weight of the bait/lures you are using. Too heavy a lb. test with too light a bait or lure will not keep the line tightly packed on the reel.
If this is not the issue, then with your thumb and forefinger squeeze the line on the spool. If it feels "mushy" or spongy, your line is not on tight enough. These two "tests" apply whether your line is new or old.
If your line is over a year old, replace it as exposure to the sun will break mono down and make it brittle. If you fish a lot, several times a week, you should replace the mono line every 4-6 months.
If you don't, the day will come when you hook that trophy fish and it will break your line.
Cheers 🐟
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Apr 23, 2020 17:02:30   #
Herbrosenberger wrote:
Hi my name is Herb and I am an avid fisherman in the State of Wisconsin. I enjoy catching all species but particularly walleyes, northern pike and smallmouth bass. I have never fished in Canada and would like to give it a try. Any suggestions as to lodges and lakes to consider in the Ontario province that I could drive to. Probably looking at 2021.

Thanks


Take a look at Brown's Clearwater Lodge, just North of Atikokan. Numerious lakes, all with portage, depending upon what you want to fish for. Spent two weeks there one summer. God's Country for sure. Bring a camera because the wildlife is amazing; beaver, Bald and Golden Eagles, Moose, Lots of Black Bear, Wolves (although they see you, you rarely see them). Great fishing for Lake Trout (held the World Record for ice fishing, maybe still does), Whitefish, Smallmouths, Walleye, Perch, and Northern Pike (up to the 20 plus pound range).
I'm pretty sure they will rent their aluminum boats, but check first if you aren't trailering your own.
https://www.brownsclearwaterlodge.com/
Cheers 🐟
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Apr 20, 2020 23:27:51   #
Many times, even before it was called a drop shot rig. Cheers 🐟
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Apr 20, 2020 15:39:34   #
Ron620DVS wrote:
The History Of The Drop-Shot.🎣🐠🐠🐠🐠🐠

April 23, 2019 by James Niggemeyer;

When I was growing up in Southern California, everyone threw a split-shot rig or used the doodling technique. Doodling was popularized by Don Iovino, who lived about 20 minutes from me. I used to go to his house and root through his tackle, and that’s where I first encountered it. The rig was simple: a 4- to 6-inch finesse worm with a bullet weight and a glass bead. Shaking it with a steady rhythm generated strikes on clear-water lakes. A split-shot rig was even simpler, with nothing but a lead shot that you crimped onto your line with some microscopic 3-inch baits.

Back then I was fishing Castaic, Casitas, Pyramid and other lakes with really clear water and heavy fishing pressure, so throwing a little finesse rig is just what I did. Funny thing is, I can’t even remember the last time I threw a split-shot rig or the doodling rig, but I can remember the first time I saw the rig that eventually replaced them: the drop-shot.

I guess I don’t know who was the first to rig up a drop-shot here or abroad, but it was definitely a Japanese development, and it was actually Aaron Martens that showed it to me first back in the mid-1990s. I had heard of it about five years before that, and I knew of a guy from Lake Perris in California who was using a rig with two hooks and a weight below it, but my history with the drop-shot as we now know it goes back to that first introduction by Aaron.

Once the word got out about the drop-shot, it was like no one threw a split shot or doodled anymore. It got to the point where every tournament was won on a drop-shot on those local clear-water, highly pressured impoundments.

At first, we didn’t even have drop-shot weights. We made them ourselves. I would buy 1/4-ounce split shot and crimp them onto the smallest barrel swivels I could find. I’m talking a tiny No. 14. Then I tied my line to that swivel. Other guys crimped a Texas-rig weight onto the line itself. I tried buying little bell sinkers, but I felt the wire wouldn’t turn fast enough like a swivel would inside a split shot.

Eventually, I saw my first drop-shot weight. It was a cylindrical weight with a line clip. They were expensive, and I remember thinking, Who’s buying that?Then, we got the first tungsten drop-shot weights, and it was more of the same. Now, if I’m drop-shotting, I couldn’t imagine not using tungsten.

Beyond tackle, the evolution of the drop-shot as a technique was really amazing. It was so much better than any of the other finesse presentations. You could even drop on fish you saw on the screen. I remember one of my buddies showing me how to do it. He’d spin around his graph at the console so he could see what was under the back and front of the boat, and we’d watch the fish go by and send a drop-shot down to them. The whole idea of catching one off the graph was new to me until then.

The technique just kept expanding. I have to admit that, at first, I made the mistake that a lot of bass fishermen do. I put the drop-shot in this little “box” and only used it in limited situations. I’d vertical fish it, and I’d cast it and work it just like a Texas rig. But I still wasn’t as open-minded as some other anglers that were really pushing the envelope.

I can remember the first time I heard of guys throwing a drop-shot on the California Delta. I thought that was so dumb. The Delta was a place to throw frogs and big square-bills and to flip. Boy, was I wrong. They started catching big ones on it.

What was even more interesting was how, at least in California, drop-shotting a little worm developed simultaneously with the transition of big swimbaits from tools for targeting trophy fish to tools to catch five bass in a tournament. I can remember talking to Byron Velvick about this years ago. He said the trend was to throw the smallest little finesse bait or the biggest, giant whatever. It’s like the whole “midsection” of bass baits wasn’t even getting used.

Now the drop-shot is the type of thing you throw anywhere (and so is a swimbait). I’ve seen it work too many times in places it shouldn’t. You won’t meet a pro angler today who doesn’t fish a drop-shot.

When I drop-shot, I really like to throw a finesse worm that’s around 4 1/2 inches long most of the time. My favorites are the 4-inch Strike King Dream Shot (bottom of image) and 5-inch Strike King Fat Baby Finesse (center of image). Sometimes I’ll go up to a 6-inch finesse worm, or down to a little bitty 3 1/2-inch Strike King Drop Shot Half Shell (top of image). I’ll even wacky rig a worm on a drop-shot if I’m not getting many bites fishing it the “normal” way, but for the most part I like a nose-hooked worm in the middle finesse size.

I feel like if you can get away with nose-hooking you’ll get more bites versus rigging it weedless or Texas style. The bait remains more “free” to move, and is less rigid on the hook.

I use a 1/0 or No. 1 Owner Mosquito or Light Mosquito for nose-hooking and wacky-rigging. If I do need to rig it weedless, I use a 1/0 Owner Cover Shot Worm Hook.

My weight is a bell-shaped Strike King Tour Grade Tungsten Drop Shot Weight, usually 1/4 ounce, rigged 10 to 12 inches below the hook. I increase the distance in very clear water, or sometimes in smallmouth water, and I shorten it when the water is dirty or I’m fishing for spawning bass on beds.

Like a lot of pros, I use a braid-to-fluorocarbon leader setup for drop-shotting. My main line is 10- to 12-pound-test braid, and I use an FG Knot to tie in a 7-pound-test Gamma Touch fluorocarbon leader.

Most people prefer the Palomar knot for tying on a drop-shot hook, but I actually use the Eugene slipknot.

The Palomar is probably the best knot if you tie it right, but, whatever it is that I do when I tie the Palomar knot, sometimes it breaks on the hookset. I try to remove all possibility of line failure, so when I first started experiencing the problem, I did some research and found an article done with Gary Klein and Shaw Grigsby. To anyone having trouble with fluorocarbon breaking on the hookset, they recommended the Eugene slipknot. It worked for me, and now I use it for everything except braid, which I tie using a Palomar.

Once I tie on my drop-shot weight with the Eugene slipknot, I pass the tag end back through the top of the hook eye, which keeps the hook pointed up most of the time. I also make sure the knot is centered and pointed up so the bait stays horizontal.


As you can tell, my drop-shot system is far more refined than it was 20 years ago when I was pinching split shot onto a swivel. Back in those days, it was up to the anglers to figure out how to make the rig work, and guys on the forefront like Aaron Martens helped a lot of us stay up on the latest tricks. Now, all the major tackle companies produce gobs of drop-shot worms, hooks, weights and other tackle, and we have incredible lines for light, finesse fishing.

So while I’m still a power-fisherman at heart, my history with the drop-shot and the modern tackle I use give me a high level of confidence that I can throw the finesse rig just about anywhere and put more big bass in the boat.


Please click on link for Additional Information Thank You-----<%=="====<<<


https://www.flwfishing.com/tips/2019-04-23-the-history-of-the-drop-shot

🎣🐠
.
The History Of The Drop-Shot.🎣🐠🐠🐠🐠🐠 br br A... (show quote)


The "drop shot" rig has been used in salt water fishing for at least 90 years I know of and most likely a lot longer. My Great Gran Dad used it while taking My Dad when he was a kid fishing, I'm 73. It wasn't called a drop shot, but a High Low rig. Like the Tautog rig described above, but also for all bottom feeding fish, not just Tautog (Blackfish). It also had a single hook version, as well as multiple hooks of three and more. Cheers 🐟
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Apr 18, 2020 14:58:50   #
Cubsfan wrote:
Does anyone have a good spoon story?


👍
Way to go!
Cheers🐟
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Apr 17, 2020 15:32:17   #
FS Digest wrote:
I’m a bit new to fishing and don’t know what to do about this.

--
by SlyCoopersB


If the line is new (less than 6 months old), then empty the spool until all the loose stuff is out and what's left is packed tight on the spool. What you have there is the result of reeling in line without sufficient tension to keep the line packed tightly on the spool. The "loops" also result from casting when a strand of line crosses atop the spool rather then on it. This usually results in a wad of knots in the guides on your rod. Other advice given is great also. Just make sure that there are no frays in the line. These will feel like little "spurs" when you run the line through your fingers. Cut your line when you find them otherwise, as these are weak spots in the line, chances are good the line will break if you hook a decent sized fish, or your line will break at the fray when casting; the dreaded "snap" you'll hear as your bait/lure goes flying off the Davy Jones Locker! Cheers🐟
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Apr 16, 2020 15:01:25   #
Don't discount the Snook fishing inside the inlet on the south side. Bucktails with 6 inch rubber worm works well there. Cheers 🐟
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Apr 16, 2020 14:58:07   #
The CDB is Awsome wrote:
I have been reading about Emerald isle fishing and it says that in May Cobia fishing is spectacular so, Any tips tricks on cobia?


Eels are a top Cobia bait trolled or live lined. So are crabs. If you fish from a boat, target buoys and channel marker poles as they frequent these. You can sight fish them around these structures with bucktail jigs in the 3/0, 4/0 size. They will make an initial run that is unstoppable, so be prepared to let them have their way initially. Once they stop the first run, then you can start putting pressure on them. Many people mistake them for sharks, so if you see a fish that you think is a shark, chances are good it's actually a Cobia, again, especially around the above structure. They will also swim behind larger rays. Have fun. Cheers🐟
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Apr 15, 2020 11:32:13   #
Dadeaux wrote:
Thanks Salty
Was only wondering because when reds hit a spoon it's with a passion it's not like when they take a pinfish & the line slowly tightens. Will change over because lately been missing a lot of strikes on a gold spoon or it's gets spit out close to the dock...


Try adding a red grub twister tail on the hook. Never tried an orange skit so that's worth a try as well per the previous post. Yes, they hit the gold spoon with a vengeance, which is all the more reason to avoid the reflex to set the hook. Let the line tighten, and just start reeling normal until the hook sets itself. Then hang on! Cheers🐟
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Apr 14, 2020 20:14:40   #
Yes. Gold spoons for Redfish. The key with circle hooks is to resist the auto response of setting the hook. When a fish hits a bait or lure it usually turns in a direction other than that the lure/bait is traveling. That's what pulls that lure or bait out of the fishes mouth relatively slowly, allowing the circle hook to catch on the fishes lip. Simply reeling will set that hook. Trying to set the hook by jerking back with your rod pulls the circle hook out of the mouth of the fish, hence so many complaints about circle hooks missing fish. It's not the hook, but the fisherman. You can see this more clearly by pulling a circle hook through your thump and forefinger. A slow steady pull will catch on your finger tip. (Make sure not to pull the hook into your flesh), while a faster pull doesn't catch at all. Again, if you try this be sure you don't impale yourself. Cheers🐟
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Apr 14, 2020 20:14:39   #
Yes. Gold spoons for Redfish. The key with circle hooks is to resist the auto response of setting the hook. When a fish hits a bait or lure it usually turns in a direction other than that the lure/bait is traveling. That's what pulls that lure or bait out of the fishes mouth relatively slowly, allowing the circle hook to catch on the fishes lip. Simply reeling will set that hook. Trying to set the hook by jerking back with your rod pulls the circle hook out of the mouth of the fish, hence so many complaints about circle hooks missing fish. It's not the hook, but the fisherman. You can see this more clearly by pulling a circle hook through your thump and forefinger. A slow steady pull will catch on your finger tip. (Make sure not to pull the hook into your flesh), while a faster pull doesn't catch at all. Again, if you try this be sure you don't impale yourself. Cheers🐟
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Apr 14, 2020 15:39:03   #
Er1c wrote:
Has anyone replaced your treble hooks with single hooks. I was considering to do this with a few lures and give it a try. But I heard from somewhere the single hooks need to be the same weight as the treble hooks. If not, it will mess up the balance of the lure and it won't swim as it was designed to. If it matters, I was thinking with circle hooks (5/0) and up with no offset.


Personally, I hate trebles. Hook myself as much as a fish, especially while trying to remove them from the fishes mouth. My solution is to cut off the welded on hook on a treble. Also have replaced them with single hooks. And most recently with circle hooks, which in my opinion is the best alternative. Yes, you may miss a fish or 2 if you react by trying to set the hook, but its worth it as fish are much easier to un-hook and the chances of damaging a fish is greatly diminished, if catch and release is your thing.
Cheers🐟
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