Kayak anchors (Page 2): After thinking about the fact, that a coffee can, could still "scratch up" your kayak, I seem to remember an anchor made in much the same way, as the coffee can...

Able Man Loc: North Coast (Cleveland, Ohio)

Able Man wrote:

Hey, gene so; many years ago, while fishing out of a rowboat, we'd use the biggest coffee cans we could get ahold of; buy "a substantial eyebolt" and some fender-washers/ nuts to "jam" the washers a little bit apart from each other... Fill the cans with "Ready-Mix", then wiggle the eyebolt/ washer dealio down into the can and we had our anchors. (After allowing the concrete to "set-up", properly.) Very "price effective" anchor solution.

After thinking about the fact, that a coffee can, could still "scratch up" your kayak, I seem to remember an anchor made in much the same way, as the coffee can anchor; but, using a gallon bleach jug, instead. Just get the largest "eye-bolt" that'll fit through the opening, including the "jam-nuts" and "fender-washers"... Fill that jug/ cement, and you've got yourself THE most economical solution.

Able Man Loc: North Coast (Cleveland, Ohio)

Or, just "tie on" to the handle of the jug, would be cheaper $till.

hacksaw Loc: Pasadena, Texas

gene so wrote:

In a few U Tube segments I have seen incredibly sm... (show quote)

Gene, when I had my kayak I used a 15# anchor made for kayaks. I had about three feet of chain between the anchor and the rope. I also added an anchor trolley which helps when the wind picks up from a different direction. The anchor trolley is just what the name implies. It’s attached to the kayak side from the front to the rear and when the wind or even the tide changes you pull on the trolley rope so you can keep the rod in front of you. Here are two pictures of what I’m talking about. The fist one is the kit you’ll need to buy. It’s about $30.00 The second one is the trolley installed. Good luck. 👍
Hack 🇺🇸🍺🍺

Cal Bob Loc: Clovis, California

OJdidit wrote:

I use a 3# folding grapnel style anchor, but I like the suggestion to add some chain to ensure it lays down. Use a 100’ rope and a good cleat on your anchor system and you should be good to go!

I also use a 3 # grappling anchor (12' tandem kayak) that works fine in most situations.
I have a fluke anchor on my powerboat that didn't work at all until I added 4' of chain. Now it grabs instantly.
The grappler folds down, and is a smooth casting, but the fluke pokes and scratches everything in the boat.
Thanks guys for the parts dip suggestion. Or maybe some of that bedlner stuff....

Able Man Loc: North Coast (Cleveland, Ohio)

Cal Bob wrote:

I also use a 3 # grappling anchor (12' tandem kayak) that works fine in most situations.
I have a fluke anchor on my powerboat that didn't work at all until I added 4' of chain. Now it grabs instantly.
The grappler folds down, and is a smooth casting, but the fluke pokes and scratches everything in the boat.
Thanks guys for the parts dip suggestion. Or maybe some of that bedlner stuff....

Yeah, for the tips of those flukes, you might find, that you could use battery straps (the stretchy kind) or a couple of wimpy bungee cords, to keep the wax on the anchor, while it's "stowed"; with the ability to "take the gloves off"; when it's time to set the hook.

Roger Lahti

In the Navy our anchor line is of course all chain and quit heavy but still, it’s purpose is to keep the ship from just lifting the anchor off the bottom when the chain goes straight down to the anchor. That is accomplished by laying out extra chain so that it is lifted before the anchor and that allows the anchor to keep its grip on the bottom. We only payed out long runs of chain beyond the need to just lay the anchor on the bottom plus a short amount to take care of a Nile swell when the anchor will be used to pull against as pulling the ship back off a beach etc. so if your max depth is 50 feet, you only need the anchor, four feet of modest sized tow chain and say another 15’ to tie off and give a bit of angle from the boat to the anchor. Any thing heavy enough to hold the bipolar in place in a strong current or wind will work. A plastic container that will take about three pounds of concrete should work thoghinroughusage it won’t hold up as well as metal. Even a modest sized plastic flower pot or any open plastic jar like snakes come in. A jug is a good idea if you can cut it open enough to get the concrete in. I might not rely on the handle as a tie off though. Plastic can deteriorate and crack suddenly.

Dendo Loc: Napa, CA

The 5 to 7 lb. danforth style anchor with some chain and a 5 or 6 to 1 scope will stick really well on sand or silty-clay. The suggestions about the coating is really cool for both the anchor and the chain rode.