Tigerbeetle Loc: Georgia

Sage is correct. I have even used 20# braid on my Daiwa Millionaire. When you spool your reel, if you go directly from the spool to the reel, the line should come off the top of the line spool onto the casting reel.

Likewise, when spooling a spinning reel [not a closed face[ the line should come from the bottom of the line spool onto the spinning reel.. A closed face can be treated as a casting reel, or the spool can be removed and placed on a spooler machine and loaded top to top off the line spool to the reel spool.

Another way of putting line onto a spinning reel is to lay the spool of line on the floor so that the line is lifted from the spool in a counter clockwise direction to prevent putting a twist in the line from the get go. If for any reason you do get a twist in your line, and you have a boat, feed your line off the reel into the the water at a slow trolling speed. Allow the line to trail the boat for a few minutes and then reel it in. Your line twist will be gone. It is good to do this once or twice a summer, or at the start of a new season.

It is most helpful to keep some tension on the spool or line as it is transferred to the reel. The same applies to the retrieving line from the slow troll as the tag end of the line gets closer to the boat.

Another tip, depending a little bit on what you are fishing for, but I always add a 10 to 15 foot chlorofluorocarbon or mono leader via a blood knot, between the end of the braid and the lure. And the leader will be at least 5 lb.s lighter or more. A blood knot has the 2 tag ends in the middle of the knot and will flow smoothly through the guides casting and reeling. A double uni-knot with will work, but it will tick going through the guides.

Two reasons for the leader:
1. Some fish are line shy, or at least people believe it. Trout, walleye and panfish come to mind which is why I always use a chlorofluorocarbon and as it is a little more resistant to breakage. On 20# braid, I use 15 lb. leader; on 14 lb. Nanofil I will use 8 lb. leader.
2. If your lure or hook becomes hooked solidly on the bottom (or tree branch!), you will not tip the boat over or lift it out of the water trying to break off.

When you change lures, if you are not using a snap/snap-swivel, you are cutting back on the leader material and not your braid.

Always carry a 6-8 inch piece of 1" dowell in the boat or tackle box to wrap the line around in a couple half hitches to avoid seriously cutting your fingers or hand on the braid when breaking your line or straightening the hook. Been there, done that, and it is no fun for several days until the cuts heal.

Good fishing!

soxtroy Loc: Plano Texas

try turning the adjustment on the left side of your reel all the way. The adjust the right side to allow he lure to just barely drop. after a few casts you can then loosen the left side a little to allow more distance. just don't over loosen it or you will be back with backlashes.

soxtroy Loc: Plano Texas

of course some reels do not have these adjustments. the better ones do.

dclarke61546

I use 10# braid on my BC and once the tension and braking are set I have no trouble at all casting 100 feet with a 3/8 jig. So what is every ones problem? Do what is required and you should have vey little problem.