Anyone run a kill switch on there trolling motor to save battery?
Oct 10, 2021 12:28:06 #
Oct 10, 2021 14:17:02 #
Mr.Wood-E
Loc: Franklin, LA
I have mine rigged up with alligator clips like you find on jumper cables. When we are done I just disconnect them.
Oct 10, 2021 18:10:25 #
6hp I have doesn’t have electric start. Could run a rectifier to charge a battery but no kill switch needed the throttle is what is used to start or stop it.
If a kicker has a Run position or Off position why would it EVER need a kill switch that is what OFF is for? Some of the silly questions by the digest are just that SILLY.
If a kicker has a Run position or Off position why would it EVER need a kill switch that is what OFF is for? Some of the silly questions by the digest are just that SILLY.
Oct 10, 2021 18:20:23 #
Mr.Wood-E
Loc: Franklin, LA
Jeremy wrote:
6hp I have doesn’t have electric start. Could run a rectifier to charge a battery but no kill switch needed the throttle is what is used to start or stop it.
If a kicker has a Run position or Off position why would it EVER need a kill switch that is what OFF is for? Some of the silly questions by the digest are just that SILLY.
If a kicker has a Run position or Off position why would it EVER need a kill switch that is what OFF is for? Some of the silly questions by the digest are just that SILLY.
Oh wait. THAT kind of trolling motor. A kicker. I was thinking an electric trolling motor with a switch to turn off the battery.
Oct 10, 2021 19:31:59 #
Mr.Wood-E wrote:
Oh wait. THAT kind of trolling motor. A kicker. I was thinking an electric trolling motor with a switch to turn off the battery.
If it OFF ( not spinning) it’s OFF. Some electric have a meter that may draw a few milliamps but yeah disconnect one of the leads will open the circuit anyway. It’s a goofy question anyway.
Oct 10, 2021 19:54:17 #
FS Digest wrote:
Anyone run a kill switch on there trolling motor to save battery?
My electric trolling set up is a spot lok 80 pound thrust system with a remote. I shut it off and disconnect it from the batteries with a disconnect switch every time I finish using it. No sense taking the chance. With a regular, electric trolling motor I did what was mentioned. Use alligator clips on the battery and just unclip em when you’re done.
Oct 10, 2021 20:23:49 #
I’ve got mine set up with a 4 prong trailer plug. When I’m done I just unplug it. But I also have a onboard, 2 bank battery charger/tender that keeps my batteries charged…🐟on
Oct 10, 2021 21:05:41 #
DozerDave wrote:
I’ve got mine set up with a 4 prong trailer plug. When I’m done I just unplug it. But I also have a onboard, 2 bank battery charger/tender that keeps my batteries charged…🐟on
I have a 3conductor plug on my Powerdrive on the bow, just to make it easier to remove for the winter. Ever since I got the Co-Pilot remote control, I unplug it after each use, in case the remote buttons get bumped. My transom mount one stays hooked directly to the battery until winter. I also have a 2bank smart charger onboard, that keeps them charged and conditioned. Any extra connections in the circuit adds another source of resistance, which can lower the voltage to the motor, and shorten run time.
Oct 10, 2021 21:12:14 #
I guess this is the point of the FS digest questions. Kinda of a silly (stupid) question but after the responses from you knowledgeable folks I learned a thing or two!
Oct 10, 2021 22:27:25 #
Fredfish wrote:
I have a 3conductor plug on my Powerdrive on the b... (show quote)
I’ve got two 12’s hook parallel and my TM is the only thing connected to them. I can get 12 to 14 hours of trolling time out of them. Bow mounted motor…🐟on
Oct 10, 2021 22:32:50 #
If running batteries parallel no matter what voltage best to have negative to load on one battery and positive on other battery with jumpers to make them parallel. Batteries will last 5 to 10 times as long compared to having load hooked to one of them and jumpers running parallel.
If wire as I suggested the batteries must discharge and charge as a bank of batteries and neither one or if several will be closer to load electrically.
If wire as I suggested the batteries must discharge and charge as a bank of batteries and neither one or if several will be closer to load electrically.
Oct 10, 2021 22:35:23 #
Jeremy wrote:
If running batteries parallel no matter what voltage best to have negative to load on one battery and positive on other battery with jumpers to make them parallel. Batteries will last 5 to 10 times as long compared to having load hooked to one of them and jumpers running parallel.
If wire as I suggested the batteries must discharge and charge as a bank of batteries and neither one or if several will be closer to load electrically.
If wire as I suggested the batteries must discharge and charge as a bank of batteries and neither one or if several will be closer to load electrically.
Like this or if have several in a bank tap main leads off opposite ends
Oct 10, 2021 22:37:11 #
Neither battery will be closer to load. The load must be extracted from the entire bank when properly wired.
A lot of boats and RVs are not wired this way but if you can change it batteries will last much longer and more charge discharge cycles before need replacement
A lot of boats and RVs are not wired this way but if you can change it batteries will last much longer and more charge discharge cycles before need replacement
Oct 10, 2021 22:47:35 #
Oct 11, 2021 07:19:16 #
I disconnect my Minn Kota every time.. even when you power it off, the GPS receiver in the head will draw power and kill the battery.
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.