Not to bring current controversy into this but the current trial of Kyle Rittenhouse is a good example of self
defense. You certainly have no right to self defense if you are just being pelted with verbal threats at a distance but at the point where you feel you are in danger of death or serious bodily harm by the physical actions of an assailant, you have the right to use whatever force will negate that threat. Being charged by or being chased by a person yelling deadly threats and close to being overtaken is that point. Having a gun pointed at you is that point. Having your assailant chase or charge you with any other kind of weapon is that point. Being blind sided with a heavy board from behind is that point. Or a rock, etc.

All with the proviso that you can legally carry. You did not instigate the confrontation by your actions verbally or physically. I carry. I was asked some years ago on the river bank why I was carrying, the gun was visible in it’s shoulder holster. My answer? Because I can.

I’ve never been in a situation where I’ve needed to draw and present but I have schooled myself to know when I should and if I do I will shoot until the threat is eliminated. And then I’ll let myself get emotional about what just happened.

As far as I’ve heard Lenore in WA is still a good lake but the definitive answer would come from either regular fishermen or WDFW Regional Biologist. Number is in the regs pamphlet. There is no dock or resort at that lake and I believe it is strictly catch and release, fly fishing only but I’d have to look at the regs for sure.

Checked regs just now. Selective gear, no bait, no barbs. No gas motors, limit of one fish over 18”.

I would not worry about trying to match mono weight recommendations to the same weight of braid. Rather the same or similar diameter. Braid is going to be stronger and softer in any case unless you really go light weight braid. What your gaining with braid is less memory and more abrasion resistance. Xtra strength is most often just an xtra benefit. And of course you use as light a leader as the fishing will allow. Probably flouro. Which normally never sees the reel spool. I use 20-30 lb braid on my steelhead spinning rod because it floats and is visible and flouro as a leader because it’s not. Both allow a hook set without stretch. My leader size is around 6-8 lb. I’m fishing under a slip bobber. And with the line taking that right angle bend at the bobber I don’t want anymore stretch than I can get away with.

If I understand, most knots need to have the tag end controlled as you softly tighten the knot by putting tension on the main line often referred to in maritime circles as the standing line. That is normal unless knot tying directions indicate otherwise. But no yanking of either the tag or the standing part.

I’m in full agreement on the use of tippet rings and I use 2mm when my eyes let me see them. I also use Kuikclips for changing fly easily. Haven’t been able to fish this year because of Chemo effects but I have some slightly bigger tippet rings to try. Ow for something no one else I saw suggested..

Most tapered leaders have a built in tippet section of about 24” to 36” That will get clipped away as you change flies if your not using that tippet ring. Find the point where the tippet starts to increase in diameter and clip the built in tippet off at that point and then tie in a tippet ring and the cut off tippet back on to the ring. That saves the original tippet. Then as pointed out, when that tippet gets short or worn or you need to tie in a smaller size or bigger size just clip off and tie in a new section of tippet. Tight lines!

Fishing regs are usually literal. . Meaning you don’t get to make adjustments to the regs because of the conditions of a particular situation. If the fish you catch is not legal to retain, you must release it regardless of its condition. In WA certain salmon and steelhead can not be retained in certain waters usually wild fish. The regs here will require barbless hooks and prohibit removing the fish from the water. Period. Other fisheries like for trout will e catch and release and call for barbless hooks. Or limit the take to one or two fish and require that you stop fishing once that limit has been caught or retained.

So if you hook a legal fish with serious hook damage you should retain it. If it’s not legal to retain it and it has serious hook damage, you should release it.

The off the shelf answer would seem to be to spy on the locals and do what they do. I fish for trout here In WA in lakes and rivers. If I move to Florida and try to fish the same way I’m likely gonna get skunked.

Betts. I detect a latent fascination with the idea of ice fishing. It’s certainly popular back Nor’East. We do it here in Wa but it’s a sport limited more to our North Ast than State wide. Something ve never gotten into myself. But my marination gets to thinking about how to do it on the cheap and in comfort. I envision finding a large pop up tent at a second hand type store to use as a cheap and light weight fishing shanty. No problem cutting a hoe in its floor and warming with a propane heater, a lawn chair and a relatively short rod. With the hole over the ice hole in a corner of the tent, a regular but short rod would work in something like a nine foot tent. Maybe a smple sled to haul it all into the ice, the draw comes from being able to fish further out in a lake than in summer with no boat.im thinking even a Colman lantern would generat enough heat to keep you toasty.

Give us a report on how your doing ice fishing as the season gets going!

It would seem to me to be a rational path to have the line section closest to the fish to be smaller(less visible) or weaker (the first to break under strain) than following sections. Certainly there is no reason not to have sections, regardless of their placement be the same strength as neighboring sections when using different types of line other than visibility or strength.

When using a section of leader to the hook, it’s generally the practice to use lighter and clearer line for that leader. Certainly when the leader ties to braid or something like a fly line. IN the case of backing behind braid, the purpose seems to be to reduce the amount of braid, a more expensive line choice, by backing it with mono. And the choice to use the same strength of mono is to carry the strength present in the braid back to the spool itself.

Squish down the barbs on your hooks. If the fish are taking the bait deep the barbs aren’t needed anyway. And most flyfishers crush down the barbs and still don’t loose many fish that are usually hooked in the lips. Barbless hooks are easier to remove with any dehooking device. If the dehooker doesn’t cut it cut the line.

Wrap sections of duct tape in two places just above and below the joint and use the added friction to twist the two sections apart. Do not apply heat from a hair dryer etc as that is how you remove tip top eyelets and metal ferrules. Melts the glue. Gloves just didn’t give you enough friction or leverage

If you own a fish pond of more than 20 acres which is located entirely within your property, you may obtain a permit at $ 2 or $3 an acre which would exempt you or your gusts from needing a State issued license.


The quote below is from a link to Florida fishing license requirements. It implies that like most states, Florida owns the fish and you must have a license to fish. The part that didn’t copy said ponds totally on your property over 20 acres. But you can Open your browser and ask a question and get a selection of answers. It will be a lot more pertinent than asking our opinion about legal questions.

Private Fish Pond License from the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission to exempt persons fishing in your pond from the recreational freshwater fishing license requirement.

The license costs $3 per surface acre.

Private Fish Pond License Application

Sounds like the question you should be asking yourself is why you aren’t catching anything, usually. There aren’t any fish there? Your not using the right lure or bait? Your not using the right technique? The first aren’t relevant because you were doing everything right but gave up too soon.move every so often, change lures every so often. Change baits or techniques, depth etc. . Change time of day. Can’t find the patience for all that? Find a different hobby. Tight lines!

I used to do some primitive snow camping north of Spokane, out of Ellensburg, and in the Idaho panhandle wearing Indian style winter Mocs rolled up in a couple wool blankets and what kept me warm was to wear the equivilant of what kept me warm in the day was worn at night. Wool, loose, and a wool berret or wool stocking cap on my head. Your feet need to be warmer than your head. Regular winter camping just called for something like Sorel Packs, wool socks, loose fit. And I’ve got a nice pair of hunting boots that are gortex and insulated with warm wool socks . Finally a layer of evergreen bows or leaves or mattress under you to keep you off the ground. Coldest thing in the world is an air matress. If pacing it in is not an issue then a 2 1/2- 3” foam pad is Heaven.wool gloves or mittens day and night. Stay dry. Especially your feet.

If they are swimming past you and jumping in front of you they aren’t spooked. They are keyed in on a natural food that you didn’t offer. You can effectively fly fish with a clear bobber and small drys that imitate what’s hatching. Just got to figure out what that is. And some times a streamer or nymph is the trick.