If streams really small and casting is minimal
I would have opted for 3/4 DTF line , loads quicker and present longer finer leader more efficiently .
All my small / mid stream outfits are loaded with DT lines for this reason !
Just my choice !

If your inexperienced then I would suggest to go to a local fly shop or fly show in your area if available to you !
I have instructed fly casting for over 35 years and many that came to classes or show demos
required some additional instructional .
Often times casting styles were better served with a different outfit , this way you can try to cast initially with some instruction , then you can decide which outfit handles better in your hands . The instructor can correct or offer suggestions on line , rod and reel choices that will benefit you and save you money in the long run .
If your starting as an average fly guy , trout , bass etc , the reel is the least important item to spend big money on.
I would purchase a get by reel , but opt for a rod / line combo that fits me and I feel comfortable with !
Also rod need not be expensive many solid branded rods have lesser expensive models that perform very well for your needs .
Get info , get help , look around many fishing and thus casting errors may not be your fault .

There’s only one Rick Clunn or KVD just like their only one Patriot team !
Back to back wins or domination in any sport is very difficult !
Sponsorships are nice if your on top but with all competition it’s very difficult to stay on top to make big $$$
However one or two big ones could put you over the top , that along with sponsorships can help !

The best way to achieve and maintain fly depth is to either use a fast sink SH measured out to balance your rod weight or a Teeny sink tip . Bear in mind utilizing the head you need to move up 2 ine sizes , from rod line weight
If water very deep and fast then upstream mend to achieve more depth !
Once fly is sunk and it turns into current I strip , drop strip drop . Hits generally come on drop , so tight line all drops !
Use shirt leader 4-5’ max so fly cannot ride up !
This presentation can be at the limits for a fly outfit if water deep and swift however I did well under these conditions on big swift rivers
Utilizing my suggestions make sure on upstream mends the water is deep and swift enough so line rides over bottom or else you will go thru heads and it’s a PIA !

I fish in and live in your region as well . I’ve been using primarily Gary Loomis ‘s new EDGE RODS !
They are sold direct only , however all American made and designed by Gary . Check out website many sales go on and it’s a helluva value for your dollar ! Best casting and most sensitive rods I’ve used !

Local fly shops generally are familiar with local fishing and the equipment required to register some success.
The neophyte fly angler is at their mercy , but I’ve found most will listen and attempt to get you on track !They need repeat customers to stay in business !
Outline your budget and mention that to them, this will help , then both of you can work within those guidelines .

Should be a fine outfit for smaller streams , only when I fish streams especially in pocket and heavy riff water , I use a Teeny mini tip
Up size to expedite presentations . Leader usually 3-5X , 4/5’ in length depending on size of fish available !
This offers great searching abilities in heavy water without losing depth
The short sink tip eliminates the use of any outside weight and permits easy mends which in many of these smaller waters is all you require for the cast.
You never have to lift line out completely this eliminating any over head casts that may grab branches etc ! Pure fishing time !

If u have those heat packets u can keep them in wader pockets to warm hands !
The trouble with most gloves warm but not waterproof ! Wet hands are the culprit , Towel dry them ! My biggest issue is my wading staff
It gets wet then my glove hand does as well !
If you can keep hands dry that’s the secret
of warmth !
I have a pair of Jon E hand warmers keep in my wader pockets so far that’s the best I’ve found !

Fluoro carbon line itself is not the best casting line except in 15# test and lighter .
Most cases your better off with braid and attaching a fluoro leader .
Also the shelf life, invisibility factor and stretch that fluoro offer are suspect !
I have 30 year old fluoro and has been stored in a cool temp , still fine , doesn’t effect test strength one bit , this is 100% product .
It’s not invisible , it’s light refractive qualities are near that of water thus making less visible , then SOME monos ! Stretch if you actually test it against a hi quality mono, not much difference at all .
In my opinion we’re it has some qualities that prove better then mono is abrasive resistance.
Also if you chunk tuna etc it lays straight once straightened and sinks very well into a slick !
Knots it’s fine but over 90# I crimp !

If it works as well as it looks , one fantastic reel , I luv those and this one looks to be cream of the crop ! And you put a correct handle on this model ! Good luck , great job !!!

I was one of the first sport fishermen in my region to use them , a local LL friend said that’s all they ever used sword and tuna fishing offshore ! This was in the mid sixties , they immediately improved my tarpon fishing hookups by 50 % ! Using live bait !

Circle hook is basically used in bait fishing situations , simply because you can’t set the hook ! Jigging etc will not allow hookups !
If you stick to bait even trolling baits where u can let the fish swallow the hook there great !
Once swallowed point rod at fish n reel this pulls hook out of fish and gets lodged in side of jaw 90% of the time , since they turn on the tension ! Much harder to lose a fish since that position allows hook to rotate but not dislodge
easily !

Most are now realizing switch n Spey aren’t required for most east coast fisheries . These rods were designed for larger waters to expedite repeat presentations .
The 2 hand cast method can easily be accomplished via the use of any single hand fly rod with a round ball butt you can grasp .
I use a G Loomis vintage GLX # 8-10 rods and have no issues . These rods are 9-10’ in length , they have the ability to load quickly and shoot line very easily if required !
I’ll never understand the need for 10’ plus rods on the east coast streams whether they be switch or Spey models !
I’ll never change I’m at no disadvantage !

If your troller it’s relatively east ! Start by noting lure action @ speed then drop back how far you intend to run this particular lure .
Criss cross pattern from deeper to shallow note trolling speed is correct when it bumps you have the approximate depth the lure will obtain with that amount of line out coordinated with the speed that denoted preferred lure action !
From shore or non trolling boat you must cast as far over spot as you can , speed up retrieve till you bump !
All different classes of lures will
Need to be tested so you know , enter in log for future use , then when bite is deep or shallow you can at least start with the right lure to attain depth required !

The rods line weight is important , but within this is a more important factor , the rods true weight n action !
If you have a quality #8 rod then it may have a faster action , if this is the case then casting a .# 10 may work out .
However it depends on fly size and of votes casting skills , generally @ 300 - 350 grain
line would compliment an #8 rod so going up 2 line sizes may overpower a softer or slower action rod !
If your casting in close under 50-60’ you should be Ok , longer range depending on you and rod coupled to fly size being used !
Any of these factors can change equation but any good caster can overcome short comings.
If you not qualified caster may not recognize all short comings .