Welcome to the Stage, Paul

I can't help you with your request but...

If you don't get a good response here in the introduction section, repost it in the Location Specific section with your question in the title. In general the more info (e.g. location, target species, boat vs bank, etc) you include the better the response.

Also please use the Quote Reply button when you are responding to a specific post -- it makes it a lot easier for the rest of us to follow along.

Once again, welcome!

A couple of additional points...

The goal is to have enough chain weight to allow for a couple of feet of chain to lay on the bottom at all times. This of course will vary depending on conditions. IF you're anchoring in extreme conditions you may have to double or triple what I recommended.

I've seen numerous websites recommend a chain length that is at least as long as the boat. However since they don't mention the chain size, I find this recommendation to be ambiguous. After all it's the weight of the chain that keeps it on the bottom. This rule also doesn't allow you to adjust for rocky bottoms.

After you've set it up and trying it out, pay attention to what happens when you have a big roller pass under -- if you feel a noticeable jarring (caused by all of the chain slack being pulled out) then you should add more chain weight.

All said, I consider the anchor as a piece of emergency equipment -- to keep me off of the rocks/reef/beach, out of the shipping channel, or pointed into the seas in the event of engine failure. The last thing I want want is an anchor that won't set or hold. Therefore I'll error on the side of caution (the heavy chain side).

I'm merging some of the info from your previous post.

Anchor type is a Fast Set (basically a plow)

You're interested in using a lift/retrieval buoy.

For most anchors dig-in-style (eg, plow, fluke, claw, mushroom...) anchors, the chain should weigh at least as much as the anchor. This weight lowers the angle of the anchor resulting in a faster set and better hold. It will also act as a shock absorber between the boat and the anchor. Keep in mind that this is for 7:1 scope. It is also the amount that is used by the manufacturer in determining the rated/recommended anchor size.

Since you are considering using a buoy lift, you'll want to have the chain weigh at least 10% more than the anchor.

Assuming that you'll want to anchor with low scope (less rode) for temporary anchoring you'll need to compensate by further increasing chain weight.

If you occasionally anchor in rocky areas, it would be better to go with a shorter length of larger chain than a long length of small/lighter.

Provided that the 9 lb anchor is the rated/recommended size for your boat then I would recommend using 10' of 3/8" or 7/16" chain (14 and 20 lbs, respectively). My personal preference is runs heavier because like to use a shorter rode and I hate having to reset.

Since the total weight would exceed the rated lifting power of the 12" buoy in your other post, you would need to upsize it accordingly (16"+). You can buy the buoy and ring on Amazon ( Welded Anchor Ball Retrieve Ring https://a.co/d/30ic3AX )

I would also highly recommend that you use an eye slice (and smooth hardware) to attach your rope to the chain in order to prevent the retrieval ring from hanging up on knots.

Here's the weight of chain in case you want to explore other options...
5/16 chain 0.876 lbs/ft
3/8" chain 1.41 lbs/ft
7/16" chain 2.09 lbs/ft
1/2" chain 2.4 lbs/ft

Looks like Bergamo Airport (Italy).

Just the accent

Sorry but I'll have to check it out later today -- need to help the boss get ready for company -- if she ain't happy, nobody's happy

You're welcome.

I forgot to mention bait for the sturgeon rod -- I use pile worms and roe.

Make sure you know the current/new regs.

You might also want to consider this spot on Montezuma Slough (about the same driving time from Sacramento):
38.1752756, -121.9639854

I'd use one rod for stripers (cut anchovies or live mud suckers) and one for sturgeon.

I don't know if the fishing pier has been repaired but if not you can fish from shore.

If you haven't seen it, here's my list of other Delta bank fishing spots (be sure to scroll down to see additions):

https://www.fishingstage.com/t-65459-1.html

Good luck!

Place your orders now -- supply is limited -- not available in stores or Amazon...

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C2K6Jf5O5nU/?igsh=MTc4MmM1YmI2Ng==

I'm assuming that you are referring to the Bowline as taught by the Navy/BSA without modifications or additional finishing (ie ABoK #1010 aka Sailor's Bowline).

Provided that:
1. The knot is tied correctly, AND
2. Applied with low ring loading, AND
3. Is not subjected to cyclic loading
I will agree that it is a fine knot.

Unfortunately, the failure to observe these three conditions has caused more fatalities than any other knot (with possible exception of the hangman's noose).

For this reason I'm not planning to teach it to my grandkids anytime soon -- I'll wait until they're old enough to comprehend the significance of it's conditional use.

I also wasn't planning on posting it here on the Stage. However, since I've received multiple requests for it and because it is clear that there are a lot of people using the knot without knowing it's inherent failure conditions, I may reverse my position and include it in the near future.

My grandson has asked me to teach him how to tie a few knots. (I started with my 12 year old but 4 y.o. quickly joined in). I thought I would share the instructions here along the way.

I'll try to get at least one new one out every week. If you have one that you are particularly interested in shoot me a PM.

As a mariner, former rock climber and member of the International Guild of Knot Tyers, I know quite a few. Some are crappy -- some are quite good. I won't post a knot that I wouldn't trust with my life.

This one is the S-Bundling Knot (It may have a different name -- if it does, I don't know it -- I like this one because it's easy to remember and implies how to tie it).

It's used any place you want three wraps around.

This knot is easily untied once the binding knot is untied.

In addition to bundles, I also use this layup for securing loads on auto roof racks (in combination with a trucker's knot) as well as anchoring to rocks or trees (or anywhere else that you want three wraps around).

If you want it really secure (eg, dragging a bundle of pipe with your tractor), throw a Constrictor Knot in the middle.

In the following pictures, I'm showing two ways of setting it up -- the top setup is for when you have both ends of the rope accessible -- the bottom is for when only one end is available (eg, being pulled from a stool/ball of twine).

I also want to apologize -- I didn't notice that I set up the two cords differently (top's an S - bottom is a Z).

---------------------------------------------

Previous knot tying instructions can be found at:

Constrictor Knot Upon the Bright
https://www.fishingstage.com/t-80113-1.html

Constrictor Knot:
https://www.fishingstage.com/t-80059-1.html

Anchored Uniknot/Fish-N-Fool Knot:
https://www.fishingstage.com/t-80054-1.html

Alpine Butterfly upon the Bight (Loop in the midsection of the rope):
https://www.fishingstage.com/t-78241-1.html

Double-Overhand Noose/Slip-Loop: https://www.fishingstage.com/t-78184-1.html

Anchor Bend: https://www.fishingstage.com/t-78186-1.html

Layout cord in an S/Z pattern. If only one end is free, form one extra crossing that has enough slack to pull over your bundle -- note how the cord is passed through the bottom of the S/Z


Place your load on top


If you're using the bottom/only one end free, lay the loop on top


Cross the free ends over and through the loops (spooled only crosses over)


Pull on the ends to take out the slack


Bring ends together and tie off with a Surgeon's Knot

This from riptidefish.com...

'Mooching is the act of fishing a cut-plug herring down through the water column and then retrieving it back up to the boat at the same speed as the drop. How deep you let your bait drop is entirely up to your judgement call for the location you are fishing.'

For halibut, I use squid or whole bait fish (anchovies, herring, etc) on a 3-way rig while drifting on my kayak.

Lures are often used (especially when you run out of bait or the sharks are biting) as well. Any lure that has good action when free falling will work (eg, Kastmaster, Krocodile and bent/crippled P-line Laser Minnow and Jensen Nordic Herring -- for more info on bending/crippling see: https://www.fishingstage.com/t-62439-1.html )

Here's a good article about mooching for salmon see:
https://riptidefish.com/master-the-art-of-mooching-for-salmon/#:~:text=Mooching%20is%20the%20act%20of,the%20location%20you%20are%20fishing.

A few of mooching/jigging lures

I didn't buy a rod specifically for jigging -- I have too many already.

Caveat -- the following is based on my assumption that the type of jigging you'll be doing is mooching style (i.e. raising and lowering a lure).

When I know I might be mooching, I'll pack a rod that (listed more or less in descending order of priority):
1. Has enough backbone for the targeted species.
2. Is at least 8' - increases the travel at the tip
3. Is lightweight (actual weight of rod) -- it will get heavy after a few hours
4. Has a sensitive tip (so that you can feel the action of the lure on decent -- majority of my hits happen on the drop)

You can still find them. The ones I've been in all tended to be a lot more family oriented.

One of my most embarrassing moments from my younger years was my mom dragging me out of Foss' pool hall by the ear.

BTW - This was filmed at Empire Cut at the now gone but not forgotten Mildred Island ferry crossing.

I made another video with me facing the camera but couldn't get it to upload. I'll post one when I get home.