Edge of the blade: What's the quickest way to sharpen a knife? Years ago I used a carborundem stone that took me hrs. Using a cheap Cabelas electric now.....too lazy for the stone. Any...

Sinker Rig Loc: Tampa area

What's the quickest way to sharpen a knife? Years ago I used a carborundem stone that took me hrs. Using a cheap Cabelas electric now.....too lazy for the stone. Any suggestions?

jarijenkins

porcelain sink

flyguy Loc: Lake Onalaska, Sunfish Capitol of the World!

Sinker Rig wrote:

What's the quickest way to sharpen a knife? Years ago I used a carborundem stone that took me hrs. Using a cheap Cabelas electric now.....too lazy for the stone. Any suggestions?

I think the secret, MHO, is not to let it get dull. Keep a good edge on it.

Sinker Rig Loc: Tampa area

flyguy wrote:

I think the secret, MHO, is not to let it get dull. Keep a good edge on it.

What? Only way to do that is not use it

OJdidit Loc: Oak Creek Wisconsin

A whetstone and honing oil

Sinker Rig Loc: Tampa area

OJdidit wrote:

A whetstone and honing oil

No, I'm over that, but if I did I wouldn't use oil on a stone

Foodfisher Loc: SO. Cal coast

I'm with Flyguy. Use a steel or ceramic to keep it sharp. Let it get dull and you've created a job.

audigger53 Loc: Severn, MD

Sinker Rig wrote:

What's the quickest way to sharpen a knife? Years ago I used a carborundem stone that took me hrs. Using a cheap Cabelas electric now.....too lazy for the stone. Any suggestions?

If the knife is stainless steel, I use a Dremal with the round sandpaper bit to shape the blade. Then I used a small 5-6 inch Mill file to keep it sharp. Stainless steel will take an edge quick, but also looses it fast.
For a good steel knife, like my Buck Folding Hunter, I use the marble stones with the Buck cutting oil.
Have to use the cutting oil on those.
Cheap knives, the mill file after the blade has been shaped/sharpened.

Sinker Rig Loc: Tampa area

audigger53 wrote:

If the knife is stainless steel, I use a Dremal with the round sandpaper bit to shape the blade. Then I used a small 5-6 inch Mill file to keep it sharp. Stainless steel will take an edge quick, but also looses it fast.
For a good steel knife, like my Buck Folding Hunter, I use the marble stones with the Buck cutting oil.
Have to use the cutting oil on those.
Cheap knives, the mill file after the blade has been shaped/sharpened.

You must have some steady hands and good eyes to use a Dremel that way

Robert J Samples Loc: Round Rock, Texas

My father always had a sharp pocket knife.He kept his very sharp and said the most dangerous knife is a dull one, it forces one to press harder thus you are more likely to have an accident and cut yourself. Only deal with a very sharp knife! just Sayin...RJS

audigger53 Loc: Severn, MD

Sinker Rig wrote:

You must have some steady hands and good eyes to use a Dremel that way

Never thought of it that way. LOL The knives both had a shape on one side only and straight on the other side. So I just used the Dremal with light pressure on the non straight side and shaped it a bit thinner, more like 70 Degree and not 45. Then the Mil file to finish it. For any "Lip/burs" take a piece of scrap wood and just draw the knife blade down it while pressing just a little. That removes ayd burs on the blade.

audigger53 Loc: Severn, MD

Robert J Samples wrote:

My father always had a sharp pocket knife.He kept his very sharp and said the most dangerous knife is a dull one, it forces one to press harder thus you are more likely to have an accident and cut yourself. Only deal with a very sharp knife! just Sayin...RJS

Amen on that. I have been cut with dull knives that "hung" and then jumped into me. Sharp only once when I was 12. Cutting Balsa wood for a model plane with an Xacto knife and it hit a soft spot on the wood and turned. Came down and nailed my thumb. 4 stiches later and a lesson learned.

Sinker Rig Loc: Tampa area

audigger53 wrote:

Never thought of it that way. LOL The knives both had a shape on one side only and straight on the other side. So I just used the Dremal with light pressure on the non straight side and shaped it a bit thinner, more like 70 Degree and not 45. Then the Mil file to finish it. For any "Lip/burs" take a piece of scrap wood and just draw the knife blade down it while pressing just a little. That removes ayd burs on the blade.

Sounds like you're turning blanks into sharp knives

audigger53 Loc: Severn, MD

Close. It's not that hard with a Dremal. Never figured out what to use the round sandpaper rolls for until I started using them on the cheap stainless knives. LOL But the little Mill file works real nice on stainless steel edges to keep them real sharp.

Sinker Rig Loc: Tampa area

audigger53 wrote:

Close. It's not that hard with a Dremal. Never figured out what to use the round sandpaper rolls for until I started using them on the cheap stainless knives. LOL But the little Mill file works real nice on stainless steel edges to keep them real sharp.

Not sure what a mill file is