stuco wrote:
First, I'd like to thank all who responded to my post about old gas in my tank for my boat. I read all suggestions, emptied the tank, got new gas, got new 2 stroke oil, and put StarTron and Seafoam in the new gas. The motor started right up. I'm pretty sure we had put Stabil in the old gas, so it wasn't too bad.
When I started up the motor after 2 years, it wasn't pumping water. A friend and I replaced the impeller and found it still wasn't working. I had a bug or something climb up the line and make a home. As soon as we cleaned the line out, it was working perfectly. Turns out the impeller was fine. I don't think the old impeller or spark plugs had an hour of runtime on them.
The boat is a 15 foot aluminum job that leaked pretty bad from the time I bought it. After reading other suggestions from people here, I was going to use some JB Weld and try to see if I could get it to leak a bit less. My son suggested I find an aluminum welder and see what he could do. I found one online that looked at pictures I sent him and said he could do it for a couple hundred bucks. He had it for a day or two, I picked it up, and he didn't raise his price. He did some nice work, I'll attach a couple of before and after pictures.
So my son and I took it out a week or so ago. It seemed to be leaking less right up until my son took a step in one spot and we heard a pop. I didn't really think that much about it until I looked by his foot and there was a little fountain shooting up. It really did look a bit like a cartoon. We found something to plug the hole where a rivet had popped out. Then he stepped somewhere else and another pop and another cartoon fountain. It was fairly comical, we bailed and kept fishing.
So enough of the story, here's the question. Have any of you replaced rivets in an aluminum boat's hull? I've been looking it up online and think I have a plan, but I'd like to get some input from anyone that's actually done it before. I found a guy here in town that gave me some solid rivets, and I think I can make them work. They are the rivets that hold the benches to the hull right in the bottom of the hull.
First, I'd like to thank all who responded to my p... (
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If you decide to use Flexseal use it on the inside not the outside, I learned it the hard way most of it pealed off the outside even though I cleaned it well. I've now done it on the inside and works way better, a boat mechanic I know told me about it. If you know where the holes are use 3m marine sealer 5200 it doesn't get hard like other types of patches. If you use the solid alum pop rivets use the 3m on both sides of the rivets to be safe. I've got a riveted boat and have been fighting leaks in other areas of the alum, when I got the boat I bucked all the rivets I could get to and that helped. I also have 2 bilge pumps. What I've done is put a lot of water in the boat and mark where the leaks are and then use the 3m inside and out and then coat the whole inside with Flexseal. I would never buy a riveted boat again. I had a skeeter bass boat before and had a problem with dry rot on the transom and said I wouldn't own another fiberglass boat, then I got into this mess. Had it out today and only had I tiny bit of water in it. Mine is a 81 smokercraft 15' deep V. This one should last long enough for someone my age 76, still can get in and out of the water alone, when I can't I'll sell it. Larry W.