KG
Loc: Treasure Coast, Florida
Anchor
Buoy
SEZ. Handles up to 20lbs fluke style anchors.
You do not have a fluke style.
Your ancor style may effect operations'?
KG
Loc: Treasure Coast, Florida
charlykilo wrote:
Your ancor style may effect operations'?
Yes, that's my concern too. And chain also has some weight. So 20lb is pushing it.
Do you think they would pass a chance to brag. Works on all anchors to 20 lbs.?
KG:
He plow anchor shown is great in sand only the way to set and release are simple as the hole near the plow is where you want to set up a lift point then run chain to main eyelet with break away line or we use copper wire. It allows you to set anchor and then when using bout and hoop it will slide down and break the chain from main eyelet and then it will lift your anchor. We use this method in the islands when anchoring in sand. This method works on any style plow.
SOB
KG
Loc: Treasure Coast, Florida
JOS wrote:
the way to set and release are simple as the hole near the plow is where you want to set up a lift point then run chain to main eyelet with break away line or we use copper wire
Yes, that's what I'm doing. Except I use zip ties. Four 50lb zip ties does it. It's great if you need to break away, like anchor stuck to a reef. Saved me a bunch of times.
But my main question is about using a buoy lift with such anchor.
KG:
We stopped using zip ties to be more environmentally conscious:-)
KG:
While fishing in the islands we use a grappling style anchor the tines will straighten out and then you can back down to help raise the hook up. Then recent the tines for the nest setup. In 160’ water works great as long as current is not too much. We have a 65’ Viking and the 28” style works well:)
West Marine has a network of advisors on various subjects. Maybe they can help.
I used that system for years guiding in Alaska. I often set in several hundred feet. It worked great. 1. Go bigger with the bouy. You do not want the bouy pulled under while raising the anchor. 2. be sure to get a good smooth splice between the chain and rode (rope) or you will be chasing the anchor up and down 3. Be sure the chain weighs more than the anchor so the anchor will not fall back down when the pressure is taken off. 4. Be sure you have enough clear surface water to pull as you have to run in a slight arch to keep the line away from the prop and a lot further than the anchor line length. 5. If possible, particularly in current, have someone drive the boat directly toward the bouy as the line is pulled aboard. That way the deck hand just has to pull the rode in and coil it rather than pulling the buoy and anchor through the water, a formidable task in current. For what it is worth, I leave the ring on the anchor rather than taking it off every pull. Thats saves a lot of time pulling and deploying the anchor and the bow is as good as anywhere to store the LARGER buoy. Remember, when fishing, you can forget the 7 to 1 scope rule. All you need is enough to hold as you should be on deck so you can see if you break anchor. It is a temporary set anyway. Definitely use a breakaway system as mentioned above. I use cord rather than zip ties, but that is just me. The breakaway has saved me $$$$ over the years in anchor costs. I have only lost 4 anchors in several thousand sets.
bapabear wrote:
I used that system for years guiding in Alaska. I often set in several hundred feet. It worked great. 1. Go bigger with the bouy. You do not want the bouy pulled under while raising the anchor. 2. be sure to get a good smooth splice between the chain and rode (rope) or you will be chasing the anchor up and down 3. Be sure the chain weighs more than the anchor so the anchor will not fall back down when the pressure is taken off. 4. Be sure you have enough clear surface water to pull as you have to run in a slight arch to keep the line away from the prop and a lot further than the anchor line length. 5. If possible, particularly in current, have someone drive the boat directly toward the bouy as the line is pulled aboard. That way the deck hand just has to pull the rode in and coil it rather than pulling the buoy and anchor through the water, a formidable task in current. For what it is worth, I leave the ring on the anchor rather than taking it off every pull. Thats saves a lot of time pulling and deploying the anchor and the bow is as good as anywhere to store the LARGER buoy. Remember, when fishing, you can forget the 7 to 1 scope rule. All you need is enough to hold as you should be on deck so you can see if you break anchor. It is a temporary set anyway. Definitely use a breakaway system as mentioned above. I use cord rather than zip ties, but that is just me. The breakaway has saved me $$$$ over the years in anchor costs. I have only lost 4 anchors in several thousand sets.
I used that system for years guiding in Alaska. I... (
show quote)
Warning: I would not use the system on smaller boats, low freeboard or under 15 foot. The side pull could tip or sink the bow on a smaller boat if the anchor is snagged. The whip back if the anchor breaks free could also flip someone overboard. If you are using a smaller boat, just use the hand over hand method. It is better to be sore the next day than dead.
Great advice: we use this style with 20’ of light chain. No bout needed just back down pull up and resend times:)
https://grappleranchor.com/SOB
We use a 25lbs hook with the chain:-)
KG
Loc: Treasure Coast, Florida
bapabear wrote:
I used that system for years guiding in Alaska. I often set in several hundred feet. It worked great. 1. Go bigger with the bouy. You do not want the bouy pulled under while raising the anchor. 2. be sure to get a good smooth splice between the chain and rode (rope) or you will be chasing the anchor up and down 3. Be sure the chain weighs more than the anchor so the anchor will not fall back down when the pressure is taken off. 4. Be sure you have enough clear surface water to pull as you have to run in a slight arch to keep the line away from the prop and a lot further than the anchor line length. 5. If possible, particularly in current, have someone drive the boat directly toward the bouy as the line is pulled aboard. That way the deck hand just has to pull the rode in and coil it rather than pulling the buoy and anchor through the water, a formidable task in current. For what it is worth, I leave the ring on the anchor rather than taking it off every pull. Thats saves a lot of time pulling and deploying the anchor and the bow is as good as anywhere to store the LARGER buoy. Remember, when fishing, you can forget the 7 to 1 scope rule. All you need is enough to hold as you should be on deck so you can see if you break anchor. It is a temporary set anyway. Definitely use a breakaway system as mentioned above. I use cord rather than zip ties, but that is just me. The breakaway has saved me $$$$ over the years in anchor costs. I have only lost 4 anchors in several thousand sets.
I used that system for years guiding in Alaska. I... (
show quote)
Thank you! This is some good advice. I didn't think about the chain weight vs the anchor weight. It makes sense if the chain is lighter then the anchor would just slide back down the moment you stop running the boat and pulling it.
And I'll make sure the chain-to-rope splice point isn't getting the ring stuck. Another good point I haven't considered.
Go bigger with the ball. Been doing this for a long time and bigger is better!
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