Matt S. wrote:
I just started fishing from a kayak this year. What do you look for in a paddle? I fish mainly in land lakes in Michigan. Looking to up grade next year. Thanks
When you are paddling for hours on end, the weight of your paddle starts to become an important factor. Even several extra ounces, over the course of a day, can add to fatigue.
If I plan to be out for more than 3 hours, I'll use a "touring" blade style where the surface area of the paddle is a bit more slender and elongated. For shorter paddling days, I'll use a blade that is more of a "whitewater" design that has a larger surface area and does not need to be dipped very far in the water for full submersion when used at a fairly quick cadence.
Over the years I have preferred a low profile sweeping motion during a stroke where my blades are rarely any more than a few feet above the water at the highest point in a forward stroke. Some folks like a higher angle of attack to the water and use more of a "windmill" style. Different paddle lengths will come into play for either style. I believe that the low angle approach conserves energy, and is great when facing a headwind.
A 2 piece take apart design is nice when transporting...just make sure the ferrule design is solid for many many use sessions. Most paddles come with at least 3 blade angle settings...straight, 60 degree feathered and 90 degree feathered. It is nice to have a choice, especially when cutting into the wind on a forward stroke. If you choose a one piece paddle, it will not have blade angle choices, but might feel more solid when being used. They can be a bit tricky to transport, but are nice to paddle with. I have a couple that are feathered at 60 degrees and 90 degrees and quite often they are my first choice to paddle with.
As for materials, and this is where you can save on the swing weight of a paddle, I like well constructed paddles from Werner and Mitchell...in graphite or fiberglass. There are numerous others to consider as well...like Aqua Bound, Bending Branches and Kober to name just a few. Lightweight wood is also nice...when used for a shaft or blades....or both. My favorite paddle is one from Mitchell, with a cedar shaft and thin graphite blade. I think they call that model the "Black Magic"...or something like that...my next favorite is from Werner...the Ovation model with a graphite shaft and the same for blades.
Sometimes you just want durability, and other times you want finesse. If you plan to push off rocks, logs and other rugged debris, be very careful with your delicate paddles. I have a couple of paddles that I use for harsh conditions and leave the better units at home depending on where I am going to fish.
When it comes to overall paddle length, that will depend on your stature and arm reach. Most of the time a 220 centimeter paddle becomes an all purpose length, with 230 being a good choice as well. You will need a bit longer paddle when using a sit on top style of kayak versus a sit in style.
Regarding technique, the basic forward and back strokes are all you need in most situations and they come quite naturally in terms of being learned. A couple of extra stroke styles are "side ferrying" and "braces"...which are used to scoot sideways and also prevent a possible capsize/rollover.
If you paddle long enough, over the years you may acquire more than one paddle and you will grab the one that makes sense for your intended destination. Best regards!