So I started laying out how my seat and trolling motor would fit and I figures out it wont work like I had planed. The trolling motor is way to long to mount in the middle in front of the seat like I hoped, so the only way I can see it working well is to mount it on the left pontoon. That way I have room for my feet and not have the seat to far back from the center of the boat. No I don't plan to mount the seat on the car rim. lol I will most likely angle the foot control up in the front to make it more ergonomic. What would be a good water proofer for the plywood that I don't cover with the Poor mans Fiberglass?
Fish-N-Fool wrote:
So I started laying out how my seat and trolling motor would fit and I figures out it wont work like I had planed. The trolling motor is way to long to mount in the middle in front of the seat like I hoped, so the only way I can see it working well is to mount it on the left pontoon. That way I have room for my feet and not have the seat to far back from the center of the boat. No I don't plan to mount the seat on the car rim. lol I will most likely angle the foot control up in the front to make it more ergonomic. What would be a good water proofer for the plywood that I don't cover with the Poor mans Fiberglass?
So I started laying out how my seat and trolling m... (
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Hopefully the plywood is marine grade, if not I don’t know if any sealer will work in the long run? Ask your paint company what to use, and if applying fiberglass over it will stick to it. You don’t want anything to go wrong on something that’s going into water. Good luck with your pontoon boat, it looks good. F&R
Fishandrods wrote:
Hopefully the plywood is marine grade, if not I don’t know if any sealer will work in the long run? Ask your paint company what to use, and if applying fiberglass over it will stick to it. You don’t want anything to go wrong on something that’s going into water. Good luck with your pontoon boat, it looks good. F&R
I don't plan on this lasting a lifetime. It was cheap to build so if it does start to go bad I can just make another one.
Fish-N-Fool wrote:
I don't plan on this lasting a lifetime. It was cheap to build so if it does start to go bad I can just make another one.
If the plywood starts to have a problem, try pressure treated wood and seal it before mounting it.
Just a thought.
Fish-N-Fool wrote:
So I started laying out how my seat and trolling motor would fit and I figures out it wont work like I had planed. The trolling motor is way to long to mount in the middle in front of the seat like I hoped, so the only way I can see it working well is to mount it on the left pontoon. That way I have room for my feet and not have the seat to far back from the center of the boat. No I don't plan to mount the seat on the car rim. lol I will most likely angle the foot control up in the front to make it more ergonomic. What would be a good water proofer for the plywood that I don't cover with the Poor mans Fiberglass?
So I started laying out how my seat and trolling m... (
show quote)
Looks like it’s coming together quite nicely FNF.
Fish-N-Fool wrote:
So I started laying out how my seat and trolling motor would fit and I figures out it wont work like I had planed. The trolling motor is way to long to mount in the middle in front of the seat like I hoped, so the only way I can see it working well is to mount it on the left pontoon. That way I have room for my feet and not have the seat to far back from the center of the boat. No I don't plan to mount the seat on the car rim. lol I will most likely angle the foot control up in the front to make it more ergonomic. What would be a good water proofer for the plywood that I don't cover with the Poor mans Fiberglass?
So I started laying out how my seat and trolling m... (
show quote)
Fish-N-Fool, when I replaced the particle board in my old Lund with oak plywood, I coated both sides with several coats of spar varnish, even the cover to the live well and that has worked very well. I have changed the live well door twice now because of abuse and wanting it to look good. The wood floor door has held up well also with the spar varnish. I just recoat it every couple of years. Just saying that's how it works for me.
Very cool I'm looking to build a small deck on the bow of my 16' Lowe Line for a trolling motor and I need to seal the marine plywood. I'll look into these 👍. Look what popped up on the bottom of the page 🤣🤣🤣
While we're talking about boat's lol. I'm still debating on a Lithium battery charger. I bought 2 12 V 100 AH batteries to wire in series for 24 V trolling motor. I'm still up in the air about whether to buy a 2 bank charger to charge the12 V batteries individually or 1 24 V charger to charge both at 1 time 🤔
Coat the plywood,especially the edges with one coat of 1026 interlux sealer then several coat of two part marine epoxy. Followed by a coat of your color choice two part epoxy bottom coat. It is initially expensive, but will be worth every extra penny over normal resin in the long run.
As for the motor, I had your problem in reverse. I needed a longer shaft. I cut the shaft and added a sleeve. I just used metal pipe sleeve with epoxy glue. Inside is only a couple wires so a splice is easy. You can do the same thing, just cut your shaft shorter, then sleeve it for strength. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Note: Use non-silicone sealant whenever you put a fitting (screw) into the ply. That and the edges is where rot usually starts. Pleade keep us updated. Thanks
Fish-N-Fool wrote:
So I started laying out how my seat and trolling motor would fit and I figures out it wont work like I had planed. The trolling motor is way to long to mount in the middle in front of the seat like I hoped, so the only way I can see it working well is to mount it on the left pontoon. That way I have room for my feet and not have the seat to far back from the center of the boat. No I don't plan to mount the seat on the car rim. lol I will most likely angle the foot control up in the front to make it more ergonomic. What would be a good water proofer for the plywood that I don't cover with the Poor mans Fiberglass?
So I started laying out how my seat and trolling m... (
show quote)
What ever you do use, I would use one of the paints that will keep you from slipping. The stuff used on submarines has a grit to it.
Harris T. Fudpucker wrote:
What ever you do use, I would use one of the paints that will keep you from slipping. The stuff used on submarines has a grit to it.
Well said. There are several medias that can be added to paint or epoxy that will create a non skid surface. Just don't get one to course to be comfortable on bare feet.
If you want to get fancy you can coat the wood then tape off the walking area and add the non skid to the last coat. Thanks again for thinking safety first.
Well, FNF if you could still get penta, that would be the trick. I smeared it undiluted onto my outside back wooden stairs in 1975 and they are still sound with rain and snow coming off the roof onto them. My bigger concern is that you are going to get dizzy with your boat going around in circles!!!
The off set motor will widen your tourn circle--- but will work. just be ready for that.
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