drpondtva Loc: Northport NY

Been doing some research. I'm interested in an affordable kayak I'd like to use upstate NY as well as as in the LI Sound and its estuaries. An 8' one person craft that would slide into my Chevy king bed would probably do what I'm looking for. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks for any input.

Doug Lemmon Loc: Rochester Mills, PA

Check with 'Andy B' and 'Plumbob'. They are both experienced yakers and would have great input for you.

plumbob Loc: New Windsor Maryland

dr, the user ( fishyaker ) is even another source for good kayak info.

Personally I found paddle type length of the kayak is one of the biggest things to consider. It seems the 12' vs the 10' yaks that I demo quite the difference. Pending you have a hitch on your Chevy, put a tail gate extender on it if you go bigger.

My first was a 12' Bonafide SS127 paddle propulsion. I believe Andy B has a SS127 Motor propulsion. When I sold my house new owner wanted the kayak as part of the home deal. Sold it for $ 100.00 more than I did 3 years earlier and purchased a 13' peddle propulsion Pro Pel.

Best suggestion I can give you is demo different kayaks sizes and styles and highly recommend the raised seat.

fishyaker Loc: NW Michigan (Lower Peninsula)

I would start out by saying..."welcome to a fantastic way to spend time on the water and fish at the same time". Kayaks are a blast to be in, regardless of how simple or complex your kayaking journey becomes.

Good suggestions thus far already by Plumbob, and hopefully others will follow. I would think about the following scenarios, and not in any order of importance:

1. Handling while alone for transport/loading and getting the craft to the waters edge.
2. Total payload that is sufficient for safe bouyancy.
3. Ability to attach some specialty gear...as simple as a rod holder for instance.
4. Material of construction...plastics, fiberglass, kevlar, inflatable, etc.
5. Storage when not in use.
6. Don't get too concerned about cost. There are numerous models out there to choose from. Find one that you like, and make it happen.
7. Consider used equipment for a "first time" purchase.
8. Performance of the hull in conditions you will spend time in. Steerable rudders are great and will save you from having to make constant course corrections.
9. Get a high quality lightweight paddle if that becomes your primary means of propulsion. You will thank yourself often!
10. Try to avoid having too much gear on board. Keep it simple for starters and aim for being minimalistic until your comfort level grows.
11. Sit on top or "sit in" style of kayak. Both have great functionality but have a different feel when you are seated.
12. Consider the way you like to fish...troll, cast, jig. Do you prefer to stand or stay seated...

These items come to mind right away. Hopefully these comments, along with those of others, will help you get a clear picture of what direction to go in. Good luck!!!

Papa D Loc: Mantweeka, Ca

I've been 'yak fishing for over 50 years (open/offshore ocean, SF Bay, Sacramento River, etc) and agree with PlumBob. Over the years I've owned several different models/styles -- some that I loved -- some I hated. I've also talked with numerous fellow 'yakers about what they liked/disliked about the ones that they were using. Their biggest complaint was that they couldn't venture out to far from their launch site because of chop (because IMHO, their rigs were too short, too flat-bottomed and/or too open on the ends).

I can't help you with today's models but can offer some criteria recommendations...

For the LI Sound(I'm assuming that the conditions are not unlike the SF Bay -- can go from dead flat to nasty chop with whitecaps in under 20 minutes plus large wakes from commercial vessels) I would go with:

- at least a 10'er -- preferably 12' or longer (14' min for offshore) -- far superior tracking and reduction of drag due to longer water lines (I solo load on a cartop my 15'er most of the time and have removable ladder racks for my short bed)

- a V hull with sharp bow and stern angles and very little rocker -- cuts through the the chop and lifts with the extra reserve buoyancy

- an enclosed/covered bow and stern with enough curve and rails to shed water off the sides -- keeps anything that comes over out of the open area (which will greatly effect stability)

- a deep seat (barely above the water line when fully loaded) -- increases stability by lowering the center of balance/gravity

- clean/cleanable decks (beyond where you can easily reach) -- it stinks having your line catch on anything while you have a fish on

- screw-in hatch covers -- I've had a few of the elastic soft covers wash off -- hard rubber are not too bad

- sit on (not in) with self bailing open area (the faster the better) with enough room to flop in a whooper

- appropriately sized for your height and weight -- my dive buddy bought the same model that I had and loved but unfortunately couldn't keep it upright because of his increase in height (+4") and weight (+40 lbs).

Definitely try (in rough conditions) before you buy.

I had a 17' sit on version of this Necky. Unfortunately they discontinued it. This touring model has the same lines (hull shape) which I loved.

Matt S. Loc: East Lansing Michigan

I just started fishing from a kayak this year. What do you look for in a paddle? I fish mainly in land lakes in Michigan. Looking to up grade next year. Thanks

fishyaker Loc: NW Michigan (Lower Peninsula)

When you are paddling for hours on end, the weight of your paddle starts to become an important factor. Even several extra ounces, over the course of a day, can add to fatigue.

If I plan to be out for more than 3 hours, I'll use a "touring" blade style where the surface area of the paddle is a bit more slender and elongated. For shorter paddling days, I'll use a blade that is more of a "whitewater" design that has a larger surface area and does not need to be dipped very far in the water for full submersion when used at a fairly quick cadence.

Over the years I have preferred a low profile sweeping motion during a stroke where my blades are rarely any more than a few feet above the water at the highest point in a forward stroke. Some folks like a higher angle of attack to the water and use more of a "windmill" style. Different paddle lengths will come into play for either style. I believe that the low angle approach conserves energy, and is great when facing a headwind.

A 2 piece take apart design is nice when transporting...just make sure the ferrule design is solid for many many use sessions. Most paddles come with at least 3 blade angle settings...straight, 60 degree feathered and 90 degree feathered. It is nice to have a choice, especially when cutting into the wind on a forward stroke. If you choose a one piece paddle, it will not have blade angle choices, but might feel more solid when being used. They can be a bit tricky to transport, but are nice to paddle with. I have a couple that are feathered at 60 degrees and 90 degrees and quite often they are my first choice to paddle with.

As for materials, and this is where you can save on the swing weight of a paddle, I like well constructed paddles from Werner and Mitchell...in graphite or fiberglass. There are numerous others to consider as well...like Aqua Bound, Bending Branches and Kober to name just a few. Lightweight wood is also nice...when used for a shaft or blades....or both. My favorite paddle is one from Mitchell, with a cedar shaft and thin graphite blade. I think they call that model the "Black Magic"...or something like that...my next favorite is from Werner...the Ovation model with a graphite shaft and the same for blades.

Sometimes you just want durability, and other times you want finesse. If you plan to push off rocks, logs and other rugged debris, be very careful with your delicate paddles. I have a couple of paddles that I use for harsh conditions and leave the better units at home depending on where I am going to fish.

When it comes to overall paddle length, that will depend on your stature and arm reach. Most of the time a 220 centimeter paddle becomes an all purpose length, with 230 being a good choice as well. You will need a bit longer paddle when using a sit on top style of kayak versus a sit in style.

Regarding technique, the basic forward and back strokes are all you need in most situations and they come quite naturally in terms of being learned. A couple of extra stroke styles are "side ferrying" and "braces"...which are used to scoot sideways and also prevent a possible capsize/rollover.

If you paddle long enough, over the years you may acquire more than one paddle and you will grab the one that makes sense for your intended destination. Best regards!

Papa D Loc: Mantweeka, Ca

Since there's so many variables -- most based on personal preference -- it is hard to make recommendation for someone else.

Here's the major things that you should research. For fishing you'll probably want to focus more on touring style than white water style.

1. Length - here's a good/comprehensive article on the topic: https://paddling.com/learn/kayak-paddle-length-how-to-pick-the-right-size

2. Blade size and shape

3. Shaft diameter and shape

4. Blade offset angle

5. One- vs. two-piece

6. Material aluminum fiberglass carbon

If you can, try to find a demo day.

Matt S. Loc: East Lansing Michigan

Thanks for the information. This is one of the many reasons I like this site.
Thanks again

Matt S. Loc: East Lansing Michigan

Thanks for the info. This will help.

plumbob Loc: New Windsor Maryland

Matt, I really can not add much to what fishyaker and Papa D mention. You can see the one on my Pro Pel is a basic paddle mainly used for in place change of direction uses, pushing off a bank and maybe a short sneak in to an area where the prop might stir up something.

My first paddle on the Bonafide I took the dealer's recommendation on length being I am 6'2" that yes size matters.

Also everyone's fishing conditions are a consideration. Are you going to be doing short hops, long distances, 2' and 3' wave conditions, ripples, lakes, rivers and see where I am going with this is that only you know where you will be fishing as far as type of blade will best suit you.

If you can please post a pic of your craft. Always like to see how folks outfit their kayaks.

Papa D Loc: Mantweeka, Ca

Matt -

I would also recommend reading through this kayak related thread posted a while back...

https://www.fishingstage.com/t-61332-1.html

The topic started off on lanyards but there are a lot of other side topics (sea anchors, flight plans, self rescue prep, etc)

Matt S. Loc: East Lansing Michigan

Here is my kayak. Less is more, but it gets me in the water.

plumbob Loc: New Windsor Maryland

Nice looking yak Matt and appears it does what you want for now and Thanks for posting a pic.

Just like many of us always looking for another if not better way to get around the waters on our kayaks. The older we get ease and convenience become factors too.

As mentioned earlier take your time now that cooler weather is setting in and visit some vendors and test a few styles and lengths out. I settled for the peddle version because I didn't want to have to pay the yearly property tax, registration fees, and licenses for a motorized kayak. Every state is different in those regards. Some states require a launch permit and that is understandable.

Best of luck in your search and please keep us up to speed on what you decide on.

Matt S. Loc: East Lansing Michigan

Will do and thank again for the info from you and others