TheMinimalistFisherman Loc: Northern Illinois

Hey fellas,
I have a little jon boat trailer that is about 40 years old. I'm getting new tires today, but when I removed them I noticed on the back of the right side tire, it looks like the seal on the hub has blown out and grease has sprayed everywhere.

Is this something that can be repaired - and is it worth repairing? I was also considering just replacing the hubs with some "pre-packed" new ones that I can order. If we go that route, I'm curious how to get the proper size. Do I need to measure the axle (2" diameter) or the spindle that the hub mounts on?

(I have Bearing Buddies - do those actually keep the bearings continuously greased, or just add a layer of grease to keep water out of the hub assembly?)

On another note, I noticed that my rear turn signal won't work. How would you recommend going about fixing this?

Thanks guys - I'll try to grab a few pics. Much appreciated!

orion72 Loc: Southern Maryland

Hubs do not need to be replaced. However, the bearings and seals can and should be replaced. It’s a relatively easy task for the DIYer. The axle is not a 2”. It is probably a 1” or 1 1/16”. The 2” is the measurement of the bearing buddy size and it’s most likely a 1.98”. YouTube the replacement method. It will show you how to determine the correct replacement size for the bearing kit. The races be knocked out with a drift pin or long piece of steel rod. They can be set with a large socket that matches the race OD. Good luck.

PLS Loc: Kingsport, TN

If you’re mechanically inclined, you can probably fix the bearing problem yourself. If not, any decent mechanic or trailer repair place can fix your bearing and light at a reasonable cost. The light probably needs a bulb, which you can replace.

orion72 Loc: Southern Maryland

Btw, the way you’re supporting the back of your trailer is pretty dangerous. And amount of pushing or pulling and that trailer can come crashing down. You need a support that is wider at the bottom than at the top. I know, too much info. Just hate to see someone get hurt.

charlykilo Loc: Garden Valley Ca

40 years and first wheel maint.? That's scary.
Even worse is the 4x4 jack stand?

With what you posted see if you can get a pro to do the work . At least help. So many things could be wrong but easy to fix.

DozerDave Loc: Port Orchard Wa.

That was the first problem I saw. Where’s your jack stands? You can buy a complete hub and bearing and seal assembly and just slap it on. Or as mentioned, just replace the seal and bearings… 🐟on

Jeremy Loc: America

It is very common ( especially with bearing buddies ) for the dust seal to leak grease. If bearings and races look good and are not worn out you only need to replace the seals after packing the bearings with fresh grease. I prefer the RED ( higher temp ) bearing grease there also is blue with lithium ( marine ) but red is an even better grease. You can get same type for grease gun to use on bearing buddies.

Some think you don’t need to pack the fresh grease into the timken bearings because bearing buddy will but that’s false. Should pack them and use bearing buddy.

Gordon Loc: Charleston South Carolina

I'd be wasting my time adding anything. These guys have given you all the info you need. It's up to you to pick out the best fit for you.

saw1 Loc: nor cal Windsor

I agree totally Gordon.
Especially bout the way you're supporting that trailer.
Looks like an accident waitin to happen. And it could be a serious one at that if you're workin on the axel at the time.
Please be careful .

Barnacles Loc: Northern California

The grease fitting of the bearing buddy is in a piston which is pushed towards the bearings by a spring. When you grease the bearing buddy, you're pushing grease into a confined space inside the hub (if your grease seal is good). This makes a bit of pressure inside the hub and pushes the piston and its zerk fitting back against the spring. The spring pressure against the piston maintains a bit of positive pressure inside the hub. This pressure will cause one of two things:
1) if your seal is good, it's MUCH more difficult for water to get in.
2) if your seal is bad, the grease is pushed out and gets slung all over the back side of the tire, as you discovered.

The idea of the bearing buddy and its grease fitting is NOT to completely fill the hub with grease. That's a bad idea.

The best way (easiest is best in my world) to grease the bearing after it's been cleaned is to use a grease needle. They're available at most any auto parts store. It's a grease fitting with a hollow needle, marketed to pierce a rubber seal and inject grease into a sealed bearing. Stick the needle between the rollers of the bearing one at a time - inside the cage - and pump in grease until it's oozing out past the rollers at both ends. Repeat, working your way around the bearing until it's greased all the way around.

About the lights, assuming you have lights with tungsten bulbs: lots of times, your brake lights are on as you back down the ramp and when the lamp goes under and fills with water the hot bulb breaks. The best solution is to replace the light fixture with LED fixtures. If you have removeable bulbs, corrosion is a huge problem for electrical connections. Make sure it's all good and clean, then put the bulb in with lots of bulb grease. You can get it at the auto parts store.

Papa D Loc: Mantweeka, Ca

Here's the steps I would recommend:

Remove the bearings and races

Clean them with solvent (I use Stoddard solvent aka Kingsford bbq lighter fluid)

Spin them with a little pressure. If they don't spin smoothly, replace them.

If you're replacing them, write down the numbers that is stamped on the side of the race.

I always replace the seals. The numbers are on the outer face.

Pack the bearings with grease before reinstalling.

Make sure to only use a good quality MARINE grease.

Make sure the inner race is FULLY seated when you return it to the hub.

When you're returning the hub nut, spin the hub while tightening until the nut is fairly smug then back it off 1/8 of a turn. Use a NEW and correctly sized Carter pin.

I use a local bearing house (only sells bearings and seals) because some auto shops require model/year/etc (the bearing house can use just the numbers. Take the old parts with you to compare with the new.

Try to buy 'made in USA' parts. The steel used in foreign made bearings is crap.

Hope this helps!
PapaD

JDFishes Loc: Atlantic County

I have to say all you guys are pretty savvy. Probably because your from the fix it yourself generation. Myself, I’m savvy around the house but when it comes to mechanics, I’d rather go work an extra day laying bricks and pay someone to do the work for me.
Props and respect for all your knowledge!

TheMinimalistFisherman Loc: Northern Illinois

Quick update - will add more info later but wanted to let you know that I agree, the support method was ONLY to hold it while I got new wheels set. They are back on and the trailer is on solid ground. Did not plan to do any work on anything with it held on the wood blocks, but THANK YOU for the concern (that is very kind of you and very appreciated) and the overall advice so far. I will process this and provide updates - thanks again!

Father son team Loc: Ill

Father son team Loc: Ill

O my gosh GET JACK STANDS IMMEDIATELY under that trailer you can get them at Menards , Lowes , Harper
Freight , Farm & Fleet , Raul King. GET THEM NOW before you do anything else.