Mounting new trolling motor: I have a question. Just purchased a new Minn Kota Riptide Powerdrive bow mount trolling motor. I plan on installing it on my 17ft. Wahoo. My question is...

Still above water Loc: San Francisco ca

I have a question. Just purchased a new Minn Kota Riptide Powerdrive bow mount trolling motor. I plan on installing it on my 17ft. Wahoo. My question is due to the fact that I do not have access to utilize the supplied mounting hardware , have no access to install the under bow nuts and washers to secure the mounting plate. I was told that I can use the rubber style threaded style toggle bolt inserts but the dealer that I purchased the motor from does not recommend them. He said that he has seen them fail a lot. My bow doesn’t have reinforced plywood under the upper fiberglass bow. I do have the capability to install an access portal to access the lower mounting hardware but would prefer not to cut into the fiberglass. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

E.pa.al Loc: Martin's Creek

Not a fan of the isolator bolts. Can u gain access through your nav lights,just a thought

Still above water Loc: San Francisco ca

E.pa.al wrote:

Not a fan of the isolator bolts. Can u gain access through your nav lights,just a thought

Thought about that but the access once I remove my bow light will not give me the room to install the lower mounting nuts and washers. I did remove the bow light to see if I could gain access but it’s only a one inch diameter hole. Can’t get my hand in , let alone a wrench. Thanks though!

Billycrap2 Loc: Mason county,W(BY GOD) Virginia, 🇺🇸🦅

Still above water wrote:

I have a question. Just purchased a new Minn Kota ... (show quote)

Send a PM to Ivey he might know !!!

Fredfish Loc: Prospect CT.

Still above water wrote:

I have a question. Just purchased a new Minn Kota ... (show quote)

If there's no foam flotation under the gunnels, I would holesaw an access port on a vertical surface close to your TM location. Perko, Beckson and others make a screw in access port, in several diameters. If theres no wood under the deck, you'll want more than fender washers to distribute the stress from the mounting bolts, or you risk cracking the glass from the torque of the TM. Make a 1 or 2 piece backing plate out of hardwood or aluminum plate. Glue it to the underside of the deck with 3M 5200 adhesive. After it cures, redrill the holes through the backing plate.
Whenever you drill through the Gelcoat, countersink the holes after drilling. This will prevent spider cracks from radiating out from the holes. Be sure you thoroughly calk all the mounting bolts and any screws.
Good luck and post some pictures of the installation.

Still above water Loc: San Francisco ca

Fredfish wrote:

If there's no foam flotation under the gunnels, I ... (show quote)

Will do. After further researching I do have 3/8 marine grade plywood under my fiberglass bow. Wondering if that is sufficient to mount the motor with stainless wood screws. Also I will need to cut a section out of my bow rails for the motor to be deployed and retracted. Are u aware of any manufacturer who makes hinged rail couplings that will allow me to reattach the the rails to maintain their strength when the motor is detached from the removable mounting plate. A safety issue when the kids are aboard.

Fredfish Loc: Prospect CT.

Still above water wrote:

Will do. After further researching I do have 3/8 marine grade plywood under my fiberglass bow. Wondering if that is sufficient to mount the motor with stainless wood screws Thanks for your imput!

I personally wouldn't rely on wood screws. When the motor is deployed, there's a lot of torque on the mounting bolts.
(Think of a piece of pipe as long as the shaft, slipped over a wrench) If there's plywood under the deck, then fender washers and Nylock nuts will suffice. Make sure they are well calked, or the wood will get wet and rot away.
Another alternative would be Stainless Steel Toggle bolts.

Still above water Loc: San Francisco ca

Fredfish wrote:

I personally wouldn't rely on wood screws. When the motor is deployed, there's a lot of torque on the mounting bolts.
(Think of a piece of pipe as long as the shaft, slipped over a wrench) If there's plywood under the deck, then fender washers and Nylock nuts will suffice. Make sure they are well calked, or the wood will get wet and rot away.
Another alternative would be Stainless Steel Toggle bolts.

I greatly appreciate your input. I’m leaning toward installing an access port like u mentioned. It will allow me to utilize the fender washers and nuts to attach the mounting plate now that I have the plywood under the bow.will use marine grade caulking on all holes along with the 3M adhesive that u recommend on the mounting plate. The motor is due to arrive on Monday. Need to move my boat to my shop where I have all the necessary tools for the installation just need to find a place to move my hot rod .

Fredfish Loc: Prospect CT.

Still above water wrote:

I greatly appreciate your input. I’m leaning towar... (show quote)

Sounds like a good plan. I had a similar situation on my Trihull. I wanted to mount an anchor bow roller, and a HD cleat. I put a 5" Beckson access port in the vertical bulkhead, and aluminum backing plates under both. No issues.

Still above water Loc: San Francisco ca

Fredfish wrote:

Sounds like a good plan. I had a similar situation on my Trihull. I wanted to mount an anchor bow roller, and a HD cleat. I put a 5" Beckson access port in the vertical bulkhead, and aluminum backing plates under both. No issues.

👍👍

Xxibishnfishn Loc: Oakland,Ca.

You can always use squeeze nuts. Requires special tool though. Or threaded inserts I think Home Depot carry’s them.
Where you located city?

Still above water Loc: San Francisco ca

Xxibishnfishn wrote:

You can always use squeeze nuts. Requires special tool though. Or threaded inserts I think Home Depot carry’s them.
Where you located city?

I’m in San Francisco. Yeah due to no ability to access the underside of my bow and no capability to install an access port to through bolt the mounting plate with the proper fender washers and bolts I believe at this time my only option is to use the toggle anchors. Been reading a lot about them on the internet. Found some high quality stainless steel ones that have great reviews for this type of application. Not a lot of good reviews on the squeeze nuts. Found them at Lowe’s. Wondering if anyone here has used the toggle bolts to mount their trolling motor. Would love to hear the pros or cons!

NoCal Steve Loc: Dunnigan, CA

Dude, if you found SS toggle bolts you are done. Use them and go fishing... better yet, take me fishing. The opportunity to immerse yourself in an environment rich with my personality and wit, should provide you with all the motivation you need to finish this project in a timely manner. What type of electrical disconnect did you buy? Also, what type of battery will you use? Enquiring minds want to know!

Grizzly 17 Loc: South central Pa

Fredfish wrote:

I personally wouldn't rely on wood screws. When the motor is deployed, there's a lot of torque on the mounting bolts.
(Think of a piece of pipe as long as the shaft, slipped over a wrench) If there's plywood under the deck, then fender washers and Nylock nuts will suffice. Make sure they are well calked, or the wood will get wet and rot away.
Another alternative would be Stainless Steel Toggle bolts.

Definitely agree with that Fred. Even with bolts they can shake loose if you don't use lock nuts or lock tight. 👍

Fredfish Loc: Prospect CT.

Grizzly 17 wrote:

Definitely agree with that Fred. Even with bolts they can shake loose if you don't use lock nuts or lock tight. 👍