Harris T. Fudpucker Loc: Lafayette, Louisiana

For all you fly fisherman! How long is your leader. I ask this due to not being able to cast a popper out straight. The bug lands half the time next to the weight forward end. I use a 5 weight with weight forward line and a 6' braid 6lb.leader. I have been using a fly rod/reel for over 50 yrs never had this problem. What do I need to change, add or etc.

Flytier Loc: Wilmington Delaware

The leader carries the energy to the fly in the cast. I wouldn't use a braid. Try it with maybe a 7 foot 2X or 3X leader.

woodguru Loc: El Dorado Ca

It's why they make tapered leaders, you want an invisible presentation out at the fly

plumbob Loc: New Windsor Maryland

18" - 2' 20lb fluro leader on my 12 lb braid. However mine is on spinning reels.

Huntm22 Loc: Northern Utah. - West Haven

Hit the nail on the head. Don’t know of any of the guys around here that use braid on their fly rod setup.

fishyaker Loc: NW Michigan (Lower Peninsula)

As has been suggested above...they do make tapered leaders for numerous applications. A very stiff styled "mono" leader...say about 7' long...that has what they call a bass bug taper...might be what you are looking for.

It may sound a bit scientific, but I do believe that the fly that a person is trying to cast plays a major role in what kind of leader you choose. A limp, light leader that you might use for a small dry fly is going to be different than one used for casting large bushy/hefty flies. There are always exceptions, but as a rule, this logic will apply.

Your 5 weight rig, equipped with a stout leader, should perform just fine. That being said, if you ever stumble upon a good deal for a 7 or 8 weight rod, that extra heft of the rod and fly line also helps give big flies a boost...again...also using a stout leader.

This approach has worked well for me over many decades.

A few illustrations about considering the size and bulk of a fly when choosing a leader taper and length....


A deer hair "frog" pattern...one of my favorites for top water bass on a fly rod.


More deer hair frog imitations...definitely need a lot of power to propel them...and a good stiff leader helps at the business end of things.

Harris T. Fudpucker Loc: Lafayette, Louisiana

I have no problem with those 'bugs', only with a bug made of wood and maybe a bit on the heavy side. I also have an 8 weight rod, and have no problem with the same set up, except the length of the rod is 9' and the braid of leader is 7' and 10lbs.

woodguru Loc: El Dorado Ca

Just a thought, you could always try an ultralight spinning rod, Lol

fishyaker Loc: NW Michigan (Lower Peninsula)

I would say that you have excellent casting experience and technical knowledge...no doubt about that. Hmmm...as far as getting a heavy fly out there....it sounds like you are using a favorite wooden or resin impregnated cork popper that is just a beast in terms of weight. Big, giant "foam" bodied poppers can be hard to flick as well, especially if they are part of a pike fly...which can be enormous in terms of fly casting. If your fly is catching fish, and you like it...then I'd just keep doing what you have been and after a cast...just quickly take up the slack and hopefully there are no "wind knots" bothering you during the cast.

I make a lot of "sloppy" casts...(and I am not suggesting that you do)...but when I make a buggered up cast I just keep the game going and usually the fish don't care about how nice I was able to lay the fly down. This is especially true of bass, which don't seem too finicky until they have been stung by the hook once! If I miss a take, they rarely come back for a second gulp anyways.

If you get a chance, perhaps you could take a snapshot of the popper and post it? I am curious to see it....

fishyaker Loc: NW Michigan (Lower Peninsula)

As I was starting to doze off to sleep...pondering your initial question...another thought came to mind....

Perhaps try tying a custom "knotted" leader from a series of rather heavy mono, stepping down in appropriate diameters as you go. Maybe use 5 different line weights and find some really stiff material. I used to tie my own years ago, and I do think that they turn over better than a modern knotless tapered one. Who knows though...it may be all in my head in terms of the knotted approach. I gave that process up years ago when knotless tapered leaders became so popular.

Once in a great while I do use a knotted, tapered leader, and I believe I can see a difference in performance. It is usually when I find one stashed in an old fly vest or obscure hiding place in my tackle collection!

Fish4fun Loc: Clinton, NJ & Venice, FL

what’s between the braided leader and the fly? Maybe a heavier tippit would make a difference.

bapabear Loc: Blaine, Washington

Braided leader on a fly rod makes no sense to me. It is expensive, too flexible for big bugs and serves no positive purpose that I can see. I get a 9 foot 7 pound tapered leader, ($2.50) cut off about 3 feet and tie on an extra two foot tippet of 8# momo I tie the bug to that. When it gets to short, I tie on another 2 foot piece of tippet. I have done that for 40 years on a weight forward line. It works as well or better than the bug taper and cost a lot less. I have used that same main tapered leader for over two years, just changing the tippet. I do the same thing when fishing salmon (kings excepted). The leader lays out nicely with even the large bugs and flesh flies I like to use.

Note: I went from a 9 rod to an 8 rod when I switched from fiberglass. I have tried floro for the tippet with no apparent gain, so switched back to mono for the tippet. It has better knot strength and is a lot cheaper. I have also seen no apparent difference in success on salmon, bass and panfish using a lighter tippet. The 8# lays out just fine with a small panfish popper or giant bass popper. I add an extra 6 to 9 inches of 30 pound tippet when pike fishing surface lures or a steel leader when fishing streamers for pike. The 8 rod has the power to cast that extra metal tippet

I use a Nos. 8 carbon rod when bug fishing and or salmon fishing. The lighter rods require extra human force to help the rod launch a big bug and still does not provide the graceful cast and delicate presentation I am after. It takes the fun out of fly fishing.

Jim Kay Loc: Franklin, Virginia

if you are using a medium to large Popper, try going up to an 8 weight outfit For this application, I would use a 6 to 7 1/2 foot mono leader with a heavy butt and tie on a 10 to 12 lb. test tippet to better turn the popper over. Bass are not that leader shy so you do not have to be too concerned about that. Also if you decide to use a smaller popper for panfish, just tie in 24 " of 6 or 8 lb. tippet.

Harris T. Fudpucker Loc: Lafayette, Louisiana

After reading all the things you guys suggested, I did the cheapest way out, just cut a foot off the braid leader. That gives me about 50% better casting. I had two hits this morning but missed both. Not a big deal! Only a few minutes and then the rain came.

FixorFish Loc: SW Oregon

HTF...I have been flyfishing since I was 11, in 1964, and have never heard of ANYONE ever, using braid as a leader. (For ANYTHING , whatsoever). What prompted you to do so ?
As has been said above, and by now you should certainly be familiar with, the physics of "turning over the fly" requires a totally different "limpness vs. stiffness" that braid can't possibly fulfill, not to mention the obvious loss of "stealth" created by using braid, regardless of the size(lb rating)....braid has never been "stealthy" when it hits the water, has it ?
At $3-$4 or so, a tapered leader...and there's one for every application, is gonna be the cure for your problem. Try one and let us know how it goes.

Still kinda curious as to why you have been using braid for a leader in the first place.....so very many downsides....stealth, visibility, knots etc....... sorry, can't see any amount of logic fueling that move.