Linton Loc: Charleston,SC

Hey y'all...I live in Charleston,SC and was thinking of getting a kayak to fish from. Lots of great tidal creeks. All saltwater. Tide change up to 6 feet. Any suggestions?

kfsrmn Loc: Lake Havasu AZ

If I were looking today it would be a foot powered. Hobbie has competition so look around.

Linton Loc: Charleston,SC

Thank you...sounds cool. Didn't know there was such a thing

RuffplayOR57 Loc: Klamath Falls, OR

Hello and good day Linton, there are a Bunch of peddle kayaks out there. Good thing about them is you can peddle when it’s deep enough, and paddle when it gets shallow. They will range in cost from about $1400 to well over $3000 and weigh from about 80 lbs. to 120 lbs., depending on the Brand. Do you homework and know what you can handle on your own if you plan on fishing by yourself. Good luck and repost if you get yourself setup. Here’s the guys i fish with and the ones we have

Linton Loc: Charleston,SC

Awesome!

kfsrmn Loc: Lake Havasu AZ

This is one I have been looking at.
http://www.riotkayaks.com/index.php/our-kayak/fishing-kayaks/91-mako-12

plumbob Loc: New Windsor Maryland

Good choice Linton, i got this pedal power one off of Craigs list new for $ 1,200. What ever you get width is the determining factor. I prefer the 12' lengths for stability. Much cheaper ones out there especially the just paddle ones. My first yak was a Bonafide 3 years ago, sold that and now enjoy fishing while i am moving.

Linton Loc: Charleston,SC

Looks perfect!

fishyaker Loc: NW Michigan (Lower Peninsula)

I definitely agree with comments regarding a pedal style. You can be hands free nearly all the time, which is especially nice when trolling. You will also be able to move along at a slightly "faster" speed than when paddling. I am in a Perception Pescador Pilot 12 unit and my average speed without too much effort is close to 4 mph. When trolling I am barely moving the pedals so there is almost "zero" fatigue. Of course you can cast and "still fish" from anything, so your choice of propulsion may depend on where you plan to use it the most.

I think it has also been mentioned about weight. If you are generally alone, be sure you can handle it. I have adapted to using a small trailer with a roller system on the rear and then a traditional saddle/yoke for the front end. Makes it super easy to launch. This ability will in turn lead to you using the kayak more often because it is so easy to get to the water and start fishing!

If you search some old threads on this site by typing "Pescador" in the title you will see some of my original postings, and some advice that the good folks on this site shared with me when I was considering a purchase.

Best regards!

kfsrmn Loc: Lake Havasu AZ

Don't agree with your speed assessment. I currently have a 15' fishing kayak and my cruise is 4mph. Top speed is over 5 mph and I am an old man. My touring kayak is faster. Paddle quality and technique make a big difference. My paddle would cost over $400 to replace. You do not need speed for fishing unless you get caught in weather conditions and you have to get off the water fast. That said, if I were going to buy a new fishing kayak I would get a pedal system. Trying to get your line out for a troll is a PITA and I do a lot of trolling.

fishyaker Loc: NW Michigan (Lower Peninsula)

I should probably re-phase a few comments, as I would not want to mislead anybody seeking advice. My "top" speed is actually well above 5 mph, but I would not want to sustain that in this 12 foot kayak for any great length of time. I can reach 4 mph very comfortably and run that way for quite a few miles without serious effort if needed. Whether that is to re-locate or get back to safety it can be done.

Wind and current come into play, so my numbers were merely just for "pondering" what might be expected from a typical kayak design. Even rider weight can factor in, because the more hull you have in the water...the more drag you need to overcome. I think a shorter and wider hull definitely do not compete with a touring hull like that which is found on sea kayaks. I also run a 19 foot Easy Rider "Eskimo" model sea kayak (kevlar), which has a fairly wide hull at 25 inches (many sea kayaks aim for 19 to 21 inches for width), and it is definitely faster than a short, wide boat. That being said, I have not seen "specs" on the whole array of fishing kayaks out there with pedal designs when it comes to expected speeds. Most "dedicated" fishing kayaks are not really designed around "speed", but instead...functionality to fish. I know that the Hobie brand is popular, as well as innovative, and maybe they zoom along faster than anybody knows with that "flipper" design versus the propeller blade styles that have become popular?

When "paddling" a wide fishing styled kayak, you tend to sit up quite high, and use a rather long paddle. As for myself I find paddling a short, super wide "sit on top" kayak more cumbersome than a sleekly designed sea kayak. I also agree regarding the paddle itself, as well as technique. There can be a huge difference in efficiency with a "seriously" designed and constructed paddle. They can cost a small fortune, but if you can capture the essence of the design and put it to good use, they are well worth the price!

I do a ton of leadcore line deep water trolling for salmon and lake trout at depths around 100'. When deploying from a "paddle only" kayak it is indeed a bugger...until you get a few colors of lead out of the rod tip. Nice to be hands free in a pedal driven kayak!

So, your point is well taken and I probably should have explained a bit more with my thoughts on the idea of speed and efficiencies. Thank you for your above comments on behalf of this thread to the original inquirer....

kfsrmn Loc: Lake Havasu AZ

Trolling for kokanee was a real problem. Paddle, let out line, paddle , let out line.
My touring kayak is 17'7"x21 3/4". My fishing kayak is fiberglass sit on but sit deep. 15'x25". It can not hold enough water to destabilize it.

RuffplayOR57 Loc: Klamath Falls, OR

Just some Info for you kfsrmn, the pic I posted the yellow yak on the left is a Mako. My fishing partner Tony has had it for two years now and he has it All setup. He has had it tip over twice, so he is not real happy with the stability but he does still like it. The one on the right side is my new one, it’s a SeaStream120pD. So far I really like it, paddles and peddles good for me, and seems to be Very Stable. My only problem with it is it’s heavy, 96# before gear and the peddle drive. I have to get help to get mine in the water, so I’m working on making a cart to help me.

fishyaker Loc: NW Michigan (Lower Peninsula)

In case you are still working up a kayak transport design, here is something I use from Wilderness Systems brand as a basic "dolly", and then made a couple of modifications. I stopped by one of our local bike shops and traded 2 large pizzas (from the staff's favorite pizzeria) for a section of rectangular coated "pipe" off a Thule rail rack to use as an extra crossbar (for mounting saddles). Then hopped on ebay and got a great deal on 2 old Yakima "TLC" model kayak saddles to use for a solid cradle support. Finally, placed some securing straps on both sides for a "double" way to cinch down the kayak. Although I use this more for my larger (and a bit heavy when loaded) sea kayak it could easily handle my fishing kayak, which weighs in at 95 pounds "dry" without any gear on board. Best regards on getting your system built!

I have "walked" my long boat nearly a quarter mile at times with this rig to reach the waters edge without any issues. If you can get "close" to the water with your vehicle...all the better! I fish alone via a kayak about 99.9999% of the time, so being able to handle things by myself is very important. When I take the boat out I have a lot of friends...because it's so easy to fish from! None of my buddies are into kayaking...unfortunately!

rated to support 330 lbs!


added a pair of "D" rings on each side to attach straps

kfsrmn Loc: Lake Havasu AZ

I have been doing this for over 30 years. I now use a trailer to haul. I have a couple of home built dollies and tail draggers. When I was still rack loading I worked out a system that I could load and unload solo without killing myself. Key is when loading/unloading from a rack have the vehicle pointed down hill. You want to be on the uphill end to cut the angle of incidence. Always tether the boat so it cant get away.