GLA Loc: WA State

How do I set up the trolling rods for fishing four poles from my 18 foot Duckworth? Do I set the poles closest to the back of the boat first or last? Are these the ones I set closest to the boat? E.g. 50 feet and the ones from the port and starboard that are closest to the front of the boat at 75-100? I fished various configs once last year and ended up tangled more often that I'd like to admit. Any lessons from those with experience welcome! I fish without down-riggers or out-riggers, just long line behind the boat.

Thanks and tight lines!

CAslirod Loc: Sacramento CA

I will try to be brief without being boring. I am not a professional guide, but have fished most of my life for trout, Kokanee and Chinook "King" Salmon, and the past 25 years with downriggers on Northern California waters. I own a 17' Alumaweld "Stryker" with 70HP
Assuming you have decent electric downriggers (1 to 4 of them) and a decent fish finder, the only other factor is what species you are fishing for. Setback can be critical depending on few details e.g. species, depth, speed & definitely style or design of downrigger weights. Trolling speed and weight design are most critical. I have found that cannon ball and pancake styles weights can be troublesome as the cannon ball will "blow back" above 2 mph and both can be troublesome in turns.
Typically I set the aft weights first, a little deeper than marked fish and a longer setback (at least 15'-20') using coated 10lb. fish style weights. The two forward weights are set at least 6'-8' higher than the aft weights using 8lb coated fish style weights with a set back of 5'10'. Of course your attractors (dodgers/sling blades) & your presentation (type of lure and/or bait) will be a factor of your setback. Never fear to change or adjust set backs or presentations as often times what worked one day will not work the following day or week. I use both Abu Garcia level wind and Shimano Bait Caster spinning reels with my downriggers according to what my onboard anglers are comfortable with.

Lastly, I have found using the fish style coated lead weights made by 4 Fins Custom Downrigger Weights (www.4finsdownriggerweights.com) are exceptional as they track true with minimal or no blow back, and closely follow your boat throughout turns. They are available in 6lb, 8lb, 10lb and 12lb sizes which should be sufficient for most inland fishing using downriggers and are made in the USA as well. Hope this information is helpful.
Tight lines to 'ya.

edkealer

Try keeping your "baits" the same distance from your boat. This will decrease the number of tangles. Also, try making your turns a lot shallower, meaning less sharp. As to which lines to set first, I don't think there is much difference which line goes into the water first.

Todd Davidson Loc: Duluth, MN

I would spend some money on the "In Line Planer Boards" those would get your bait out to the sides and behind your boat. Fish tend to spook and swim either away from or deep. Boards would be set first - and the farthest back from the boat. Rule of thumb is the baits to the left or right of the stern should be farthest out (not a huge amount - this will float your bait to the surface from line friction with the water). Lead core line would also work in lieu of downriggers. Another option are Dipsey Divers, these can be adjusted to drag your baits deep and to the side if you like. Keep a Tight Line.

GLA Loc: WA State

Good info. I currently don't use down riggers, but probably will make that investment sometime this year. Thanks for the info on the weights. I'll keep that in mind.

Thanks!

GLA Loc: WA State

Planer boards are great. I have a couple, but don't always use them. I'll learn more about them this season as I get more time in the boat. Thanks!

GLA Loc: WA State

Thanks edkealer. I'll try that. Maybe I'm making it more complicated than I need to by trying to run multiple lengths on my trolling gear. I'll try setting them up equal distant and you're right about the turns. I think that's where I'm running into problems. I'm underestimating the turning distance and that's probably what's causing most of my tangles. I'll learn more about it this season as I get more time in the boat.
Thanks!

troutmaster93010 Loc: SOCAL

I use down riggers and usually clip the line so my lure / worm is about 15-20 feet behind the boat. I've never had problems with lines crossing over on turns, even if it's sharp to avoid inconsiderate boaters. Sometimes I also run a pole with lead core. I put the downrigger down first (normally run 12-25 feet deep depending on the time of year). Then let the lead core to get down to the estimated depth I want.