Working with stainless steel trolling line: I was given two packages of old but new stainless steel trolling line in coils about 6-7 inches across. What kind of reel/pole should I put...

Benjo

I was given two packages of old but new stainless steel trolling line in coils about 6-7 inches across. What kind of reel/pole should I put it on? Do you twist the line at connection points or do you use crimping sleeves? I troll mostly for salmon and large Togue (Lake Trout) in Sebago Lake Maine which has depths to 360 feet. We normally use lead core line or mono with a down rigger to get to depths where the fish are. Are there any concerns I should be aware of other than the risk of cuts if you try to manhandle the line without gloves.

Egghead

I have mine set up using 7 strand stainless 150 lb test. You can use a rod that has titanium guides or a roller guide rod I have both. I use two crimp tubes to attach a swivel. If your not using it on down riggers your going to have to have a lot of line and a big reel to get down 300 feet. Good luck.

Fredfish Loc: Prospect CT.

Benjo wrote:

I was given two packages of old but new stainless ... (show quote)

Benjo, regular stainless wire is very springy. I always had backlash problems with it. I found "Monel " wire much easier to work with. It's much softer (anealed). Either way Google "Haywire Twist". That's the best way to terminate any wire line.

saw1 Loc: nor cal Windsor

Benjo wrote:

I was given two packages of old but new stainless ... (show quote)

If you have a downrigger I would use that. Wire line was used when people didn't have a downrigger to use. You can use a lot lighter gear and it is more fun then.

Kerry Hansen Loc: Bremerton, WA

saw1 wrote:

If you have a downrigger I would use that. Wire line was used when people didn't have a downrigger to use. You can use a lot lighter gear and it is more fun then.

X2

Jimmyking Loc: Desoto , Missouri

Fredfish wrote:

Benjo, regular stainless wire is very springy. I always had backlash problems with it. I found "Monel " wire much easier to work with. It's much softer (anealed). Either way Google "Haywire Twist". That's the best way to terminate any wire line.

Why would you get a backlash when using wire line?

Fredfish Loc: Prospect CT.

Jimmyking wrote:

Why would you get a backlash when using wire line?

Regular hard stainless is "springy",it wants to come off the spool. Have had many "semi"experienced guys let off too much with their thumb,and BOOM BIRDSNEST! I used to bucktail for Blues and Bass on my old boat.

Jimmyking Loc: Desoto , Missouri

Fredfish wrote:

Regular hard stainless is "springy",it wants to come off the spool. Have had many "semi"experienced guys let off too much with their thumb,and BOOM BIRDSNEST! I used to bucktail for Blues and Bass on my old boat.

I use Penn 109 reels , the old ones with direct drive . Tighten the spool tension knob so the lure pulls the line off the spool . No backlash and no need to thumb it .

Fredfish Loc: Prospect CT.

Jimmyking wrote:

I use Penn 109 reels , the old ones with direct drive . Tighten the spool tension knob so the lure pulls the line off the spool . No backlash and no need to thumb it .

I use to use Penn Senator 113s . Changed to Monel and solved the problem. That was 25 years ago. Sold that boat in 2001, haven't fished the sound since.

Jimmyking Loc: Desoto , Missouri

Fredfish wrote:

I use to use Penn Senator 113s . Changed to Monel and solved the problem. That was 25 years ago. Sold that boat in 2001, haven't fished the sound since.

Are you going to fish again ???

Fredfish Loc: Prospect CT.

Jimmyking wrote:

Are you going to fish again ???

After I Sold my Luhrs I Got away from fishing for a while. I bought a Harley, and got back into riding with some old friends. 6 or 7 years ago I uncovered my old 14 tin boat and got back into freshwater,mostly bass fishing. I miss the salt but retirement is not too far away and I'm heading south. I plan on getting back into it then.

Fredfish Loc: Prospect CT.

For now this is keeping me happy.

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tdiklich

Used wire extensively years ago to troll bridge pilings for striped bass. Monel was easier to handle then eventually the superbraids. Straight down to a 16-20 oz ball with a 15-20 ft leader about 2 ft off the bottom. Had to use a rod with silicone carbide guide rings and a level wind reel with a hardened guide because the wire cuts things. I built custom rods. We built a wireline rig with Aftco roller guides and tip on a Shakespear blank shortened to about 5 feet. Allowed the angler to put the bait at a very specific level due to lack of stretch. We sold hundreds of these to Chesapeake Bay Bridge trollers. Worked for bottom bouncing flounder too. Usually used a small crimper. Some knots worked, but you got a lot of cuts doing that. Superbraids don’t stretch and they don’t cut so much, so the wire is used much less now.

tdiklich

You need a rod with roller or silicone carbide guide rings and a level wind reel with a hardened line guide. I built custom rods for Lighthouse Tackle in Norfolk. We built a wireline rig with the small Aftco roller guides and tip on an unbreakable Shakespear Guts Butt blank cut to about 5’. Sold hundreds to Chesapeake Bay Bridge anglers. Monel was easier to handle and eventually the superbraids took over. Straight stretchless drop to a 16-20 oz ball. 12–15’ leader about 2’ above the weight.Worked well for bottom bouncing flounder, but was perfect for putting baits right on the bridge pilings. I used a crimping tool to avoid the wire burrs. That’s why you use the levelwind too. Penn made one with the hardened guide bars. Use on downriggers too, for more accurate depth control. The wire birdnests in a flash and requires lots of thumb control, but you can feel every tap of the weight on the bottom and hold the bait just above.

Fredfish Loc: Prospect CT.

tdiklich wrote:

You need a rod with roller or silicone carbide gui... (show quote)

Yeah we used it in Long Island Sound to drag bucktails, umbrellas, or bunker spoons. Life would have been simpler with today's superbraid.