Wally West wrote:
Need some advice. I have a 24 volt Minn-Kota Ulterra trolling motor (absolutely love it). A pair of batteries will last a little over a season before they start running down, from a full charge, in a couple hours. They are hooked up to an on-board charger when not in use. A season is 100-130 trips. Is this what I am to expect? Or are there batteries available that would give me better longevity?
West,
There ARE much better solutions than Lead Acid IF you'll take a few minutes to understand Lithium and Lead. I know how you feel about the constant maintenance of Lead Acid, here is what I found (its long) -
Bay Boat Dept:
I personally run a 12V MK RipTide on 1300# 17ft bay boat. My normal trip is 6hrs, most of it running on speed 3 while on course lock (fishing a bank for example) in Salt water. I rarely hit speed 10, but have done a few 15 minute runs at speed 8 to cross a bay without the outboard. I'd rather not run electric items at their rated max. After a typical day, it takes about 20A of juice to charge my battery. My charger measures how much juice I put in the battery.
I'm using a 12V 100AH lithium battery. Specifically a LiFeOn battery. The chemistry is important. LiFeOn batteries last 2000 to 5000 cycles. That could be a 20 year battery at 120 trips/year (2400 charges). That is projected cycles (although I believe its true), I haven't run my batteries for 20yrs. Yet. My battery is from 2012, so I have a few years on it. For a 24V system, I wouldn't expect much difference in the amp use, (because the voltage is 2x).
Lithium Fire Dept:
Can't skip this. Tribal knowledge has it that lithiums catch fire. The media loves to play that up, sells alot of advertisement. The "trick" to not catching fire is A) Use LiFeOn battery chemistry and B) Charge properly on a per cell basis. This means NOT charging them > max voltage per cell. For LiFeOn, that is ~ 3.65V. LiPo and Li-ion are NOT LiFeOn, so don't confuse those chemistries.
Easy Street Dept:
When you buy a lithium battery, it will have a BMS attached to it (inside actually) that will be designed to not allow a cell > 3.65V. No BMS = No Deal (imho). The BMS will stop any charge current once any of the internal cells hits the 3.65V level. It will also stop any discharge current when any cell reaches the min voltage (~2.5v/cell).
Voltage Dept:
After charging to 3.65V, the LiFeOn cell will drop to 3.3V after a short time. Also, a LiFeOn battery pack will have 4 cells inside, so the max voltage will be 3.3 x 4 = 13.2V and the discharge voltage will be 4 x 2.5 = 10V. Since a lead acid is discharged at 11V, then I expect the MK will shut off near 11V, so its unlikely that the BMS will shut off at low voltage. I haven't run mine down that far yet to find out, so I can't be certain on that. (For a 24V setup, double the numbers, of course).
Convenience Dept:
Did I mention my battery weighs 31#, the lead ones were 65#. Lithiums have no acid in them and are all sealed. My flooded lead eventually ended up sprinkling my jeans with acid, putting pin holes in them when I was servicing them. I'm so glad they are gone. Also, I can grab my lithium (un-plug the connector of course) and lift it right out of my boat. Any time I want. The lead, 2x the effort and watch the acid.
Cost Dept:
Are LiFeOn batteries expensive? Depends on how you see it.
My battery was ~$500 in 2012. They are about $400 now it seems and if you watch, you can find some lightly used medical batteries in the $200 - $250 range. If a battery was used for 2 years, charged every day, that is about 700 charges. Suppose it only lasts 2000 charges, then you have 1300 charges left. At 130 trips/year, that is still 10 years? For $250 = $25/year, no acid and no 65# batteries to deal with?
My lead ones were ~$120 and yes, they lasted 3~4 years or so. So ~$30 to 40 per year. I only fish about 30x per year, so at 1500 recharges, that is 50 yrs. There is another thing about lithiums, they don't sag like lead. Even at 50A juice. They generally sag about 1/10th that of lead, so its hardly noticeable. With lead, you know when you're getting low, they just don't put out the juice.
You have to do the math for your situation and see what kind of deal you can find on the batteries. You won't need as high of a AmpHour battery with lithiums as you do with lead.
How to choose a lithium?
I don't sell batteries, but if you're planning to get one, figure out what your max current draw is (put a clamp meter on one of your wires while out and "open" the MK up). What ever that is, make sure your LiFeOn battery BMS allows at least that much current. I suspect you'll be in the 50-60A range, so a 80A or 100A BMS would work well and should last.
Almost Last : If you get a pair of 12V batteries, then charge them with a pair of 12V chargers. If you get a single 24V battery, then charge it with a single 24V charger. Lithium chargers are available on ebay and amazon. And you probably don't need a huge charger. If you're draining 20A on a trip, then a 5A charger will charge the battery in about 4 hrs. Less charge current = less heat = longer electronics life.
Diet Dept: I've used mine enough that I'm planning to get a 50A battery. A more modern battery pack will weigh about 15 lbs and run about $220 (or so). I like the idea of a lighter pack since I have never used more than 21A to recharge. With that low depth of discharge (40%) I expect the new battery to last 3000+ cycles (ie, the rest of my life). I think its likely you could use a 24V, 50A battery too. Your call...