FS Digest

I am thinking about going at this with a syringe and epoxy, but I am looking for feedback on the best adhesive to use that can be wiped away clean around the edges or otherwise sanded down. U40?

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by madnatxinho

FS Digest

I would fill the gaps with Gorilla Glue, let it expand overnight, then sand it down.

But anything you do will be temporary and not as good as the original. Soft, crappy cork is one of the downsides of buying less expensive gear that is rarely mentioned.

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by FLORI_DUH

FS Digest

I second this, you'll want to use an expanding glue but the best thing you could do before trying this is to contact echo about it. They may replace it for you.

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by Machaco

FS Digest

I would imagine that will void your warranty. Send it back to Echo. They are really good about their warranty.

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by danthebiker1981

FS Digest

Wood glue

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by toxictungstensquirmy

audigger53 Loc: Severn, MD

First see if they will repair it for you, hopefully under warranty, for Customer Satisfaction. If not I would use "Ribbon Epoxy" as it hardens and you can sand it afterwards, NP. Ribbon Epoxy or Solid Epoxy, You mod 2 pieces together and then force it in the gap. Each glue has limitations, the Solid Epoxy has less problems than the others. It's not a liquid so it doesn't run. Just my 2 cents worth.

Smokypig Loc: Cheyenne, wyoming

My experience is it is best to replace a cork handle. If you try to repair it, odds are you will spend a lot of energy and time trying to keep it repaired.

flyguy Loc: Lake Onalaska, Sunfish Capitol of the World!

I'm not familiar with Echo's warranty. If they will replace it, GREAT! Replacing the handle is not going to be an easy fix. I would suggest using cork fibers mixed with ProKote epoxy, sand then U40 cork sealer. You might PM Kerry Hansen to see what he would say if he doesn't answer this post. He is one of the best rod crafters on this Forum.

Smokypig Loc: Cheyenne, wyoming

Flyguy is right about this. My method of replacing the handle is to buy a different rod. I should have said it that way. Cork is wood, but not "real" wood.

flyguy Loc: Lake Onalaska, Sunfish Capitol of the World!

That would be the easiest way, for sure.

FixorFish Loc: SW Oregon

Depends on the severity of the crack or damage. Replacement of the entire handle sounds like overkill, unless it's totally mangled. I would use Gorilla WOOD glue... NOT THE POLYURETHANE...EXPANDING TYPE. I have seen more damage done with that glue than actual "repair". The wood glue is worked down into the crack with a piece of thin stiff plastic like that which you find in packaging, wipe excess, let set for a few, then lightly sand with 120g or 150g to create some dust as filler. Epoxy is so hard, it would likely create a lump too far different in consistentcy to achieve "level" by sanding.
It may not be to your liking, but another alternative is the handle wraps out there. I have one rod handle I used the cushioned wrap for, and I found the process similar to redo-ing a baseball bat or tennis racket grip. End result pretty satisfying and practical, grip-wise.

flyguy Loc: Lake Onalaska, Sunfish Capitol of the World!

That sounds like the best idea to me and an easy fix. Thanks for the help, fixorfish. A better idea than mine and easier.

Smokypig Loc: Cheyenne, wyoming

Durn. Wish I had talked to fixorfish a while back.

FixorFish Loc: SW Oregon

Sorry smokey.... I have picked my moniker because it's accurate ! Been fishin' and fixin' since I became aware of either. Given a Cane pole at 3yrs old, and Dad claimed I outfished him from the first day. My older sisters having me fix their dollhouse problems at about 6 or 7. Retired 2 yrs ago from Furniture/Cabinetry/Fine Woodworking/Interior Design biz, even owned/ran an Art Gallery for about 10yrs (functional art only, no paintings or drawings, and the sculptures had to have some actual function !) If any queries about specific repairs come up, I may know the correct glues and finishes (and tips and tools) available, please let me know. If I am unsure, I'll say so.

Kerry Hansen Loc: Bremerton, WA

If you have access to rod making supplies, I would get some U 40 Rod Bond. Don't worry, it does come in small quantities and has an extremely long shelf life. It is a two part "Paste" type epoxy That is mixed 1to1. If sometime down the road you see the resin half of the two-part epoxy getting a little grainy, either set it some warmer water or NUKE it a few seconds at a time. It will smooth up and be ready to go. It now comes in two formulas, a new fast setting and the standard. I would recommend you use the standard unless you have to urgently use the rod. I would use blue painters masking tape to reduce clean up mess and use Ispropyl alcohol. If you can't get Rod Bond, I would use TITEBOND which comes in 4 or so versions. Get the water proof version and follow directions. It is not a paste type so a little cork dust will help thicken it up a bit. Not too much. If the area to be repaired is large, You can mix in some fine cork dust, as mentioned previously, to better match surrounding areas. Having said all that, I would make sure the warranty won't cover your problem. Have you checked with the place you bought the rod? Finally if you have to sand the area after your repair has set up, remember this. The epoxy will be harder than the cork so use a flat hard surface backing for your sand paper so you only take off "high" spots.